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Routes in The Sapper Cave

Butterfly Effect, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cantina Boy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cool World S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cooler World (Extension of Cool World) S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crowd Pleaser S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Hand Me the Canteen, Boy S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Handy Boy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Kiss That Stings, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Left El Sapper S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Less Than Zero S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Peleliu S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Right El Sapper S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rumor Has It S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
That One Climb S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tijuana Crack Whore S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Westerplatte S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Eric Candee
Page Views: 3,254 total, 16/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Jul 8, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Maybe the grade at this one has settled in around 12d -- I'm not sure and I don't think it matters. This is simply a splendid climb on some of the sweetest stone in the Canyon.

Hand Me the Canteen Boy climbs out the middle of the Sapper Cave onto the slightly overhanging blue and pink headwall over the lip. Start on the first two bolts of Cantina Boy then move right along a jug horizontal, which leads to a very steep alcove. Fight your way up the pods through the alcove and over the lip. A brief shake gives way to crimpy, sustained climbing on the headwall, with plenty of thin moves all the way to the anchors.

Trivia: This summer a climber fell clipping high on the route. Unfortunately his pinky finger was looped through the carabiner somehow and was basically sheared off when he fell. If there's a lesson here, I suppose it's that you should do your best to let go and cast off if you think you're going to fall clipping.

Protection

12 draws.

Photos

danieljordan
Portland, OR
  5.12d
danieljordan   Portland, OR
  5.12d
Don't let its looks deceive you - this route is as good as it gets. I found it quite hard for the grade but didn't use the super obvious and apparently pretty helpful kneebar. Instead, I punted a lot on the headwall - probably 387 times before sending. Mar 3, 2017
13a like Le Specimen. Sep 24, 2016
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
This route was rebolted with glue-ins during the recent 2011 Rifle RendezSPEW (Cleanup Day). The hard to reach clips were moved. Sep 4, 2011
Great route. .12d in Rifle, .12c in B.C. Nov 21, 2005
All I can think of when I see the route name is Adam Sandler on SNL. Dec 6, 2002