Avg: 1 from 5 votes
Routes in Notchtop
|Direct South Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Finding Religion on the Spiral T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Instant Clarification (AKA Rap Route) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Laid Back (a.k.a. NE Ridge) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Mornin' T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Optimismus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Relief Train T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Religion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Spiral Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Topnotch T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|White Room T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 9 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Larry Hamilton and Keith Bell, August 1973|
|Page Views:||856 total, 5/month|
|Shared By:||L. Hamilton on Apr 8, 2003|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThe big corner on the first pitch, and the two traversing pitches (up left, then back right) that zig-zag through overhangs above the grassy ledge at half height, are particularly good. The rock quality is generally comparable to that of Hallett or the Petit Grepon, although much less climbed. Below is the original FA route description.
Begin slightly left of the center of the main E face of the Notch Spire itself, in the leftmost of three prominent roofed dihedrals.
P1: From the left end of a huge, flat flake, leap across a moat and into a lieback on the main wall. Proceed up the dihedral for a long, strenuous pitch. Exit left near its top and belay. 5.8.
P2: Starting from the right edge of the belay ledge, climb right-facing flakes and dihedrals to a large grassy ledge. 5.7.
P3: An easy chimney, face and corner pitch leads to a meadow. 5.4.
P4: Wander up right to another meadow. Walk up to a large block leaning against the upper wall, and belay atop this. 3rd-4th class.
P5: Make a rising traverse across the smooth face to the left, and belay on an uncomfortable grassy stance at the base of a vertical corner-crack. 5.8.
P6: Climb the crack and make a long exposed traverse back to the right, below a long narrow roof. Belay in the bulging gully that forms the right boundary of the upper wall. 5.8.
P7: Follow this steep gully. Towards the end of the pitch, wander out onto a nice belay ledge on the left. 5.6.
P8: Climb up and right into an overhanging, dihedral system that is followed to an adequate belay area. 5.8.
P9: Continue up the bulging gully to the summit of the Notch Spire.