Type: Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Walter Fricke and Dan Bench. 1970
Page Views: 2,364 total · 9/month
Shared By: paco on Jun 30, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

10 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

Optimismus goes straight up black water streaks(seen in pic below) to reach the main bowl of Spiral Route below the Notch. as long as its dry, Optimismus is a steep, quality route.

p1- pitch one and two can be linked in a streacher 60m pitch but this landed me in a not so hot belay spot protection wise. either way p1 starts off with steep offwidth and stemming. great pitch. 5.9.

p2- head up and left with some nice face moves before the belay at a horizontal break. 5.7.

p3- climb straight up a steep stem box to right facing corner ending on a nice big ledge. kinda loose 5.8.

p4- traverse right on the ledge to a nice but sharp left facing corner. stem and jam the corner and continue up to the Spiral Gully bowl. cool 5.7.

from here there a several choices to finish on but East Buttress 5.8+, South Ridge 5.8 or Spiral Route 5.3 are among the best options.

Protection Suggest change

bring one to two sets of cams to #3 camalot. a #4 camalot could be used in spots but is not needed.