Direct South Ridge
Avg: 3.4 from 92 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Chuck Schobinger, Al Auten, 1958|
|Page Views:||19,485 total · 93/month|
|Shared By:||Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThe recommended variation to the original South Ridge route. An inspiring, steep line from below, it offers a surprising amount of crack climbing (Colorado style at any rate). We found it to be a relatively fast grade III compared to others I've done in the Park. Hike up a short ways past the mountain's SE corner, and find a ramp that cuts back to the right. Go up that to the base of the route. The first 2 or 3 pitches are easy 5th class, with many variations possible (usually simul-climbed). At a point where the wall steepens considerably, reach the highest of several terraces, a long ledge that runs off to the right. Almost all of the route occurs just to the right of the actual arete.
P1. Face climb up and left for half a rope-length, to a ledge below a right-facing dihedral (5.6).
P2. Climb the hand and fist crack in the back of the dihedral, turn the airy roof with interesting moves, and face climb right, then back left to a belay--an excellent, exposed pitch. (5.9, 130 feet) The fist crack after the roof is very nice looking and seems to be the natural line, but I don't know how difficult it is (not in any guide).
P3. Head straight up the crack at 5.8 and belay on a ledge on the other side of the arete/ridge (80 feet)
P4. Two distinct variations are possible from here. The direct route
wanders the onto the west face and eventually finds a 5.6 chimney which leads to a belay right on the arete. People often seem to get lost looking for this chimney-it's pretty far to the left. Prior to the chimney there's a similar looking slot that's closer to 5.9. Supposedly there's a 10+/11 seam somewhere in this area as well.
P5 of the direct route heads up and right to a beautiful, steep 5.9 crack. This pitch can easily be combined with P6, which is a 5.7 corner/groove.
The original finish (from the top of P3) is as follows:
1) from the belay, traverse right across a prominent slab for 30 feet, and ascend a series of 5.8 cracks and corners slightly up and right to a belay in a large dihedral.
2) climb the dihedral to the top (5.7).
Both pitches were fairly long. Both variations end on the Notch Spire directly above the descent.