Direct South Ridge

This is the recommended variation to the original South Ridge route. An inspiring, steep line from below, it offers a surprising amount of crack climbing (Colorado style at any rate). We found it to be a relatively fast grade III compared to others I've done in the Park. Hike up a short ways past the mountain's SE corner, and find a ramp that cuts back to the right. Go up that to the base of the route. The first 2 or 3 pitches are easy 5th Class, with many variations possible (usually simul-climbed). At a point where the wall steepens considerably, reach the highest of several terraces, a long ledge that runs off to the right. Almost all of the route occurs just to the right of the actual arete.

P1. Face climb up and left for half a rope-length to a ledge below a right-facing dihedral (5.6).

P2. Climb the hand and fist crack in the back of the dihedral, turn the airy roof with interesting moves, and face climb right, then back left to a belay--an excellent, exposed pitch (5.9, 100+ feet). The fist crack after the roof is very nice looking and seems to be the natural line, but I don't know how difficult it is (not in any guidebook).

P3. Head straight up the crack at 5.8, and belay on a ledge on the other side of the arete/ridge (80 feet). Pitches 2 & 3 can be combined.

P4. Two distinct variations are possible from here. The direct route wanders the onto the west face and eventually finds a 5.6 chimney which leads to a belay right on the arete. People often seem to get lost looking for this chimney - it's pretty far to the left. Prior to the chimney, there's a similar looking slot that's closer to 5.9. Supposedly there's a 10+/11 seam somewhere in this area as well.

P5 of the direct route heads up and right to a beautiful, steep 5.9 crack. This pitch can easily be combined with P6, which is a 5.7 corner/groove.

The original finish (from the top of P3) is as follows:

1) from the belay, traverse right across a prominent slab for 30 feet, and ascend a series of 5.8 cracks and corners slightly up and right to a belay in a large dihedral. Per Bogdan Petre: "this pitch is less run out than it looks. Gear is hidden behind right-facing flakes but is plentiful enough to protect both the leader and the follower. Mind the square meter-sized triangular block at the end of the traverse. It's detached but looks deceptively stable when climbing up past it from below. It isn't until you pull over it that you'll realize how easily it could be pulled off and sever your rope. Use it sparingly."

2) climb the dihedral to the top (5.7).

Both pitches were fairly long. Both variations end on the Notch Spire directly above the descent.