Type: Trad
FA: Allen Hill and Dave Bell
Page Views: 618 total · 3/month
Shared By: Joe Keyser on Apr 26, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


16 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-

Description

If you are ready for a battle, this climb is totally sick! Showcase is an overhanging thin hands crack that gets wider as it goes up. Starting the route is a tricky stem move. Once established in the stem you can place a nice .5 (or so) cam, and start cranking. The rock is extremely sharp, and there aren't many good rests. It's really sustained, but, I guess I'd say that the crux was at about half-way, going through a short pod. When it widens up at the top, you can either place wide gear, or put smaller stuff in the back of the crack. Your call, but, I was glad to have a couple wide pieces (4, & 4.5 cams) for the upper section... The crack is kinda short (40 or 45 feet?), but will put up a good fight! It helps to keep your eyes open for features that will help you stem, and smear... Walk off back, then left. The climb wouldn't suit a TR very well since the crack can easily swallow a rope.

Showcase is located on the Little Butt near Asshole Rocks. It is adjacent to the routes on the Da Butts main crag. If you get to the summit of Da Butts, you will see this obvious feature below you and uphill from the start of the route Roll Dem Bones (see description of Roll Dem Bones, and Cardiac Crack for my attempt at providing approach beta). It is on a huge boulder split in half by a dihedral. Scramble, and bushwack your way to the base, and climb the dihedral. There's also an insane looking A4 seam to the right of this crack that looks like it would have some scary hook moves. Have fun!

Protection

Hubbel's guidebook says pro to 5", extra 3-4". You don't really need a #5 cam, but could use some wide gear on the second half of the pitch. A full rack of cams up to about #4, or #4.5, with maybe an extra #0.75, or #1 cam will sew this up.

Photos