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Routes in Da Butts

Buttkicker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dumb-De-Dumb-Dumb T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ho De Do T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Igor Unleashed T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kayla's Way S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nazi's Demise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roll Dem Bones T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Showcase T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smegma Burns T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: M. Brown / J. Buhl
Page Views: 107 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jeff Buhl on Sep 17, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Although short, I found this to be a nice route with some interesting /technical moves.

The crux is establishing yourself on the face and then moving through very technical and thin climbing past three bolts.

Location

Find the first line of 4 bolts to left of Ho De Dum.

Protection

The pro is 6-7 draws + an optional 0.75 -1" piece for the final run to the bolted anchor.

Per Alex A: the hangers are missing. There are bolt studs and the top anchors.

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Chris G.
Lakewood
Chris G.   Lakewood
Just hiked out there, still no hangers. From these comments, looks like there hasn't been any for years. May 28, 2016
Jeff Buhl  
 
Thanks Alex,

Next time I am out there I will bring some new ones. It's a shame folks are still doing this type of thing.
Jeff Jul 14, 2014
Alex A  
FYI, the hangers are missing, only bolt studs and the top anchor, Jun 16, 2014
Brady Robinson
  5.12a
Brady Robinson  
  5.12a
Crux is gnarly and still evolving. Pretty hard even at 12a if you asked me, but I'm not a slab master.... Mar 12, 2012
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Well, forget that flat chip for the left hand at the crux - I leaned back on it to shift a foot, and both it and I went airborne.... The hold is now uneven and very sharp and thin. Thin enough to sever the skin off of "pinged" fingers.
The move is a lot harder now. As my partner said it - this is an "evolutionary" route....
Get on it with thick, fresh tips. Mar 12, 2012
Personally, I thought the climbing was rather mellow until the third bolt, where you leave that little ledge rest and then fairly tame again once you've clipped the fourth bolt. Also, 5 bolts in all.

As for a grade, I didn't check this site to see what this route was before I got on it and am surprised the grade is as low as it is. I would have said 11d had someone asked me. Mar 13, 2010