Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Da Butts

Buttkicker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dumb-De-Dumb-Dumb T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ho De Do T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Igor Unleashed T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kayla's Way S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nazi's Demise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roll Dem Bones T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Showcase T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smegma Burns T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Don't know
Page Views: 134 total · 1/month
Shared By: Christopher Jones on Apr 25, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


15 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Starts with a couple of face moves up past a bolt to the finger crack. The finger crack gets wider as you climb and turns into good hands by the end of the first pitch. The second pitch starts with a nice unprotected traverse to a wide roof. Climb the roof to good easy hands and the up the slab. Build an anchor. Walk off or rap from Nazi's Demise anchor. Both pitches are very short, I climbed both at once and had a lot of rope drag. Probably best to do it in two.

Location

Far right side of rock.

Protection

Small nuts to #4 Camalot.

Photos

Jonathan Stickel
Golden, CO
Jonathan Stickel   Golden, CO
I also found that the second pitch is hardly worth doing, but if you must, I suggest doing the traverse, down low, as part of the first pitch and setting up a gear anchor in the corner. This worked well for us today. We also left a stuck nut halfway across in the flake, so it is even protected now (until the flake blows, anyway). May 24, 2014
Luke Clarke
Golden
Luke Clarke   Golden
The choices on the second pitch are guano or run out traverse. Most of us will choose run out. The leader risks slamming back into the right-facing corner and the second risks slamming into the left-facing corner under the roof.
Turns out the feet are decent, so stay low and out of the fecal matter. It's South Platte slab. Aug 19, 2012
Alex A
 
Alex A  
 
Fun 1st pitch, but the 2nd pitch traverse is covered in bat shit or is a run out slab, with bad falls for the leader and second, very short pitch, Note the original start is not up the slab with bolt, was surprised the bolt was not chopped, plus it's almost worthless, starts the same as Nazi's Demise, then moves right. Jul 26, 2011
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
Look out for the booby trap on the unprotected traverse, pure death....

Oh yeah, the walkoff to the right is faster than rapping. Sep 28, 2009
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
A fun route that is harder than it appears from below. Sep 28, 2009
In 2002, we added one bolt to protect first moves and anchor on top of first pitch. May 29, 2009