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Routes in Da Butts

Buttkicker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dumb-De-Dumb-Dumb T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ho De Do T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Igor Unleashed T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kayla's Way S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nazi's Demise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roll Dem Bones T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Showcase T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smegma Burns T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 126 total, 1/month
Shared By: richard berk on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

Near the middle of the south face is a prominent, left-angling crack system that starts from a ledge/pod about 20ft off the ground. This is a great route for a leader just breaking into 7 and 8s though the start of pitch 1 might be a little scary. It is also just a great route.

Pitch 1: Climb up to the beginning of the crack through fairly run-out 5.6. Follow the crack up to a large ledge area. (5.7)

Pitch 2: Continue up to the top following the left-leaning crack system. (5.7+) Alternatively you can climb the crack to the right of the ledge for a great 5.9 finish - this is the 2nd pitch of Roll Dem Bones.

You can rap off - 100ft + 150ft - or work your way over the top and come around either side of the rock.

Protection

To 3".

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
There is no bolt near the bottom (one is not needed) but the belays have bolts for an easy rap descent. A fun route to warm up on. Sep 15, 2009
In 2002 added anchor bolts to top of first and second pitch which climbs steeper crack right of first pitch. May 29, 2009
Bill Flaherty
Evergreen, CO
 
Bill Flaherty   Evergreen, CO
 
There are some great routes on this crag (Kayla's Way, etc). This isn't one of them. A thrutchy, mossy, water sluice. May 9, 2009
Andrew Ingraham
Conifer
 
Andrew Ingraham   Conifer
 
This is a fun route despite the huge ledge in the middle of the first pitch. I would highly recommend doing the start to roll dem bones, although a 9+ it's really only one or two weird offwidthy moves and protects very easily with a #4 Camalot. Second pitch is really nice. Choose between two nice cracks or use them both. Medium sized cams. The second pitch to roll them bones looks even nicer. May 16, 2006
There are 3 bolted anchors on this route, although we climbed it in one pitch with a 60 m rope. There has also been a bolt added near the bottom, although it's not clear whether or not it was intended for this route, it's in an awkward place for the route. Aug 2, 2003