Avg: 3.7 from 25 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft|
|Page Views:||5,636 total, 28/month|
|Shared By:||Joe Keyser on Aug 17, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionAREA: Want excellent crack, in a secluded area? This is a good crag...Asshole Rocks/South Platte. If you can find it, it's worth it. I put some info on the approach below that should help.
ROUTE: Cardiac Crack is on the South face of Asshole Rock proper. I believe that this is the easiest route on the crag, at stiff 5.9+. It is a possible sandbag (IMO), but, mainly really sustained, and awkward. Definitely harder than Locksmith on Sphinx Rock, and about as sustained as pitch 2 of Center Route on Cynical Pinnacle.
When you get to the south face, the route is obvious, being the longest crack, with a roof about 20 feet up. It starts out with a finger crack/corner, where you can use some chimney techniques with the feet. At the roof, instead of pulling up on jugs like it may look, you just start chimneying up through to an awkward pod. Then, you thug over this overhanging crack section onto the crux. The crux is a steep crack section with fingers through hand jams. Pretty sustained stuff! Then, about 35-40 more feet of (again sustained) fist/off-fists. Mantle easily up to the top, and belay using chockstones...
DESCENT: Walk left (climbers left) from the chockstone belay. Should be able to spot rap anchors on the far West corner. At least one of the bolts is good/newer... One, short rap. This is the same rap for most all climbs on the South Face.
GETTING THERE: From Pine Junction, head South on 126 towards Pine. Go through Pine, past it by about 2 miles or so, you get to FR #550. Book a left on 550. Go up about 1/4 mile till you see some yellow "no motor vehicles" signs. Park at the first one of these on the left. Walk down the old 4x4 trail behind the sign.
After a few minutes, the road intersects with the next one off 550. At this 3-way intersection, walk left. Keep going around the ridge until the road starts going off shaprly to the west. Right as it turns, look closely for a faint trail leading straight up the hill. Take this to the base of the NorthEast face of A-hole rock (Evidenced by 2 wicked 5.11 dihedrals). Form here, to get to the South Face, walk LEFT for a nice bushwacking session around the crag. I dont think a trail to this side of the crag exists.. The trail to the NorthEast face is pretty good, but, kinda steep, and faint. Its a dirt trail following a line of sticks that somebody sat there (btw - thanks to whoever did that!)
To get to Da Butts, and some other nice crags, just keep going down the 4x4 trail when it heads back west. These climbs should be easier to approach than A-hole rock proper...