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Routes in Asshole Rock

Cardiac Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Inflatulation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mister Sol T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Taint T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wild West Show T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Tom Bohanon, Dave Gottenborg, 12/87
Page Views: 160 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jonathan Stickel on Apr 10, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is on the SE point of the formation, about 100 feet right of Cardiac Crack. The first pitch is the main part of the climb; the rest is mostly to just to get to the top, but the the third pitch as described provides some additional offwidth climbing. This is a good warmup for Cardiac Crack -- it also gets sun much earlier.

P1: step over the gap and climb the wide crack. It is cupped hands / fist jams and stemming to start. Go past a rounded horn, use the flakes up left, and then get partially in the crack before exiting onto a sloping ledge. Belay at the back of the ledge by slinging a boulder, or continue, 60 feet, 5.8+.

P2: go directly left on an easy sloping crack/dihedral, tunneling under some rock. Then go directly right up a block and belay in a flat area under a large crack, 30 feet, 5.easy (this pitch could be combined with and/or split with the other pitches, but watch rope drag due to the sharp turns).

P3: climb the short wide crack / squeeze chimney, 25 feet, 5.8+ (this pitch is different than described in Haas, et al. guidebook but makes an excellent finish in similar style to the first pitch).

Location

From Cardiac Crack, traverse right along ledges. Some routefinding and a couple exposed low 5th-class moves are needed. As you round the formation, pass the first overhanging, splitter, wide crack to the second crack.

Protection

Standard rack to #6 and blue Big Bro. Emphasis on big gear, but doubles probably not required.

Photos

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