Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Tom Bohanon, Dave Gottenborg, 12/87|
|Page Views:||160 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||Jonathan Stickel on Apr 10, 2016|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is on the SE point of the formation, about 100 feet right of Cardiac Crack. The first pitch is the main part of the climb; the rest is mostly to just to get to the top, but the the third pitch as described provides some additional offwidth climbing. This is a good warmup for Cardiac Crack -- it also gets sun much earlier.
P1: step over the gap and climb the wide crack. It is cupped hands / fist jams and stemming to start. Go past a rounded horn, use the flakes up left, and then get partially in the crack before exiting onto a sloping ledge. Belay at the back of the ledge by slinging a boulder, or continue, 60 feet, 5.8+.
P2: go directly left on an easy sloping crack/dihedral, tunneling under some rock. Then go directly right up a block and belay in a flat area under a large crack, 30 feet, 5.easy (this pitch could be combined with and/or split with the other pitches, but watch rope drag due to the sharp turns).
P3: climb the short wide crack / squeeze chimney, 25 feet, 5.8+ (this pitch is different than described in Haas, et al. guidebook but makes an excellent finish in similar style to the first pitch).