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Routes in Asshole Rock

Cardiac Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Inflatulation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mister Sol T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Taint T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wild West Show T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Deaun Schovajsa, Peter Hubbel, CT Traufield, late 1980s
Page Views: 82 total, 1/month
Shared By: rob bauer on Jul 6, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Direct start is possible, but I suspect most folks angle in from the right and wire the bolt. Doesn't get done much judging from the friable flakes and the cleaning I did. I led up to the ledge and belayed from gear in a horizontal crack to watch the action. (The last bit to the top is maybe 15 feet of easy climbing.) It's probably 2 stars, but not worth the walk by itself. Good to do after CC.

Location

Mister Sol is the left most climb on the "South Face" (faces West, if you ask me) of Asshole Rock; maybe a minute's walk left from Cardiac Crack. It's a good looking, straight-up, thin crack with a hangerless bolt up off the deck, just right of the crack. Descent is a walk off down the slabs to the north (left) to a tree, then hard left through a cleft next to the wall brings you right to your pack.

Protection

Small to medium nuts and small cams; maybe up to a #1 Camalot works. Hubbel says up to 3 inches, but I didn't bring or use one. Definitely bring a wire to saddle the bolt (the nut is on it).

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10c
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10c
I did this again today because my partner had not done it before. It is short but is amusing if you are already in the area. May 4, 2014
Chris Mack  
 
OK route, worth doing once. The start is a little sketchy, and that bolt is complete crap. Oct 2, 2012
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10c
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10c
Short, but fun and worth doing after Cardiac Crack. It's a little dirty but not too bad. Mar 16, 2009
First ascent, Deaun Schovajsa, Peter Hubbel, CT Traufield, late 1980s. I placed the bolt (my first ever) and yes, the idea was to traverse into the crack. Sep 18, 2008