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Routes in The Pinnacle

Army Route, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cheyenne S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chivalry S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Corrugation Corner S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dragnet S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Full Monty S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Kendlee S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Men Arete, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Right-Facing Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shitter, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Steep Side S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tiger Snap? S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Carrie Lin & Bob Robertson
Page Views: 3,808 total, 20/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on May 25, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

Wartime is the bolted route immediately left of The Army Route. Locate the first bolt with the homemade red angle hanger just above a horizontal outcrop - it's a ways off the deck, but the climbing is easy. Continue past a cold shut and two more bolts to lower angle terrain. The route begins to steepen again at the fifth bolt (missing hanger - either sling it with a stopper or climb past it). There is also an ancient ring piton just to the left of the bolt - it's possible to clip it, but it probably wouldn't hold much of a fall. Continue past two more bolts to the anchors (crux). It is a good climb on solid rock.

Rappel with a single rope (50m would work).

Protection

7 bolts to cold shut anchors.

Photos

Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Fun route. Well-placed 1st bolt to protect the first move over the small lip. Enjoyed the way the route allows you to climb up the arete. Route difficulty depends greatly on how you get to the last bolt and anchors. If you stay left and use the crack, it's very moderate. If you stay right at the top and face climb over the bulge, it's much harder. Jul 10, 2010
jmeizis
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9-
jmeizis   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9-
I would call it solid 5.9-. It's harder than Balance but easier than some of the 5.9s in the Garden such as Crescent Corner or Credibility Gap. Albeit it's different stone and a different style. I found it only a little bit easier than Corrugation Corner which I climbed after Menarete as well as after onsighting Dragnet, Full Monty, and Cheyenne. Aug 27, 2009
Larry Shaw
  5.8+
Larry Shaw  
  5.8+
A fun route that is well bolted (except the funky homemade hangers). Although not much harder than 5.8, it was harder than Balance, 5.8, 30m to the right. Jun 13, 2004
I can't possibly agree that this is 5.9+. 5.9- at the hardest. Nov 3, 2003
Carrie  
A Respectable Trad-Climber Said To Me, This Is The Very Best 5.9 In This Valley! Sep 14, 2003
Carrie  
After I got the first ascent of this sport climb, we retro'ed it (adding two bolts-the last bolt is one of them; sometimes I can still skip the last bolt (on this sport climb. The real name is The Men Arete; just because a naive editor renames my climb does not mean that the naive name gets heald on another humans vanity!!!! Please....Wartime is an insult. Let's get it straight.... Men Arete, 5.9+. I was the person who drew a topo for these sport climbs we have bolted; &, to get a false label is insulting. Men Arete, 5.9+, the reason the topo says 5.8 is because of arrogance.... Sep 14, 2003
Carrie  
I like this line. Sep 14, 2003
I'm of the school of thought that says you find a weakness and climb it. If your priority for the weakness is speed, then go for what looks quick. If you're priority be aesthetic movement, then look for that. In lieu of this, when climbing this line of bolts as your pro while moving over the weakness that is the face and arete feature of this rock, I say you use what holds are available to you. That means that there is no 'off' as long as you are within reach of the bolts. That also means that the easiest way up the climb while using the bolts as pro is the way that should receive the grade. Jul 11, 2003
I really should wait until I get on the route again (which was supposed to be today, rain). However I want to say that the rating could reflect different variations at the crux. Particularly that the right side of the bolt line is a bit steeper and with less features than the left side (which features a conveniently placed bush, though its debateable if that's on-route for those ticking low-mid grade sport routes. sadly, like me). Jun 4, 2003
Not only is their a confusing paradox amongst the information, but there is yet an undecided grade for the climb. I'm going out on a limb, here, but I wouldn't call this climb any harder than 5.8. May 12, 2003
Perhaps this is a stupid question...but if Menarete and Wartime are the same route, why is one listed as 5.8 and one at 5.9+? Just curious :-) Dec 13, 2002
Julian Smith
Colorado Springs, CO
Julian Smith   Colorado Springs, CO
This route is the same as Menarete. Wartime is the name given in the Rock and Ice number 95 Article, but Menarete is also a commonly used name. Aug 5, 2002
Someone has installed a new hanger at the fifth bolt. A 50 meter rope will just barely reach for lowering and TR. Jul 26, 2002