Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 6,526 ft
GPS: 38.79249, -104.87579
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 272,182 total · 1,009/month
Shared By: Julian Smith on Dec 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Road closure and reopened after flood damage! DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

"Cheyenne Canyon is a narrow gorge carved by North Cheyenne Creek as it tumbles east from 12,000' Mt. Almagre. The creek rushes over Helen Hunt Falls before continuing downward through the granite core, making several looping meanders. The canyon's walls are lined with soaring rock precipes split by cracks, buttresses, ledges, and alcoves." - Rock and Ice #95. This area has a combination of mainly sport routes, with a few trad and ice climbs, too. It is one of the oldest climbing areas in the Pikes Peak region.

The granite quality runs the entire spectrum. The farther up the canyon you go, the better the rock quality seems to be. Helen Hunt Falls, which is located at the top of the canyon, has a little bit of ice climbing. The best seems to be Silver Cascade Falls. This area has seen extensive development in the last few years. There are lots of good routes located in discrete side canyons. Lots of good training is to be had scrambling up and down very loose gullies.

Camping can be had in nearby Pikes Peak National Forest or cheap motels abound in Old Colorado City and Manitou Springs. All the good local ammenities exist. Colorado Springs has a many outdoor stores where climbing equipment can be obtained. See "In Search Of...Ice. An Ice Climbing Guide For Those In Colorado Springs" - Joel McWhiney, 1997 and "Colorado Ice Climber's Guide" - Cameron Burns, 1997.

Getting There Suggest change

From Colorado Springs, exit Interstate 25 onto US Highway 24 west. Turn left or south on 21st street. Turn right or west on Cheyenne Blvd. Follow this until North Cheyenne Canyon Road splits back to the right. All of the climbing is along this road. The Graduation Boulder is an easy to find landmark. Above it, across the creek is the Pinnacle. It is very easy to spot and has a wonderful 4 pitch up its north face called the Army Route.

135 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: North Cheyenne Canyon Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at North Cheyenne Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5 PG13
 41
Route 5 aka The Graduation Crack
Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 168
The Army Route
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 40
Wendy
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 121
Crack Parallel
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 78
Kendlee
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 64
Balance
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 34
Royal Wedding
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 93
The Men Arete
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 28
Old Aid
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 57
Corrugation Corner
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 36
Rock'n & Riding
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 36
The Full Male Deal
Sport 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 29
Tiger Snap?
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 22
Crickets in the Cabbage
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 33
The Disclaimer
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Route 5 aka The Graduation… Graduation Boulder &…
 41
V1 5 PG13 Boulder
The Army Route Pinnacle
 168
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 4 pitches
Wendy S Buttress & Tinseltown
 40
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Crack Parallel W Face (The Pinnacle…
 121
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Kendlee Pinnacle
 78
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Balance Pinnacle
 64
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Royal Wedding S Buttress & Tinseltown
 34
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Men Arete Pinnacle
 93
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Old Aid Creekside Wall
 28
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Corrugation Corner Pinnacle
 57
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Rock'n & Riding S Buttress & Tinseltown
 36
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Full Male Deal Amphitheater
 36
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Tiger Snap? Pinnacle
 29
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Sport
Crickets in the Cabbage Amphitheater
 22
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Disclaimer Amphitheater
 33
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in North Cheyenne Canyon »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading