Elevation: 6,528 ft
GPS: 38.793, -104.876 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 209,679 total · 886/month
Shared By: Julian Smith on Dec 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

"Cheyenne Canyon is a narrow gorge carved by North Cheyenne Creek as it tumbles east from 12,000' Mt. Almagre. The creek rushes over Helen Hunt Falls before continuing downward through the granite core, making several looping meanders. The canyon's walls are lined with soaring rock precipes split by cracks, buttresses, ledges, and alcoves." - Rock and Ice #95. This area has a combination of mainly sport routes, with a few trad and ice climbs, too. It is one of the oldest climbing areas in the Pikes Peak region.

The granite quality runs the entire spectrum. The farther up the canyon you go, the better the rock quality seems to be. Helen Hunt Falls, which is located at the top of the canyon, has a little bit of ice climbing. The best seems to be Silver Cascade Falls. This area has seen extensive development in the last few years. There are lots of good routes located in discrete side canyons. Lots of good training is to be had scrambling up and down very loose gullies.

Camping can be had in nearby Pikes Peak National Forest or cheap motels abound in Old Colorado City and Manitou Springs. All the good local ammenities exist. Colorado Springs has a many outdoor stores where climbing equipment can be obtained. See "In Search Of...Ice. An Ice Climbing Guide For Those In Colorado Springs" - Joel McWhiney, 1997 and "Colorado Ice Climber's Guide" - Cameron Burns, 1997.

Getting There

From Colorado Springs, exit Interstate 25 onto US Highway 24 west. Turn left or south on 21st street. Turn right or west on Cheyenne Blvd. Follow this until North Cheyenne Canyon Road splits back to the right. All of the climbing is along this road. The Graduation Boulder is an easy to find landmark. Above it, across the creek is the Pinnacle. It is very easy to spot and has a wonderful 4 pitch up its north face called the Army Route.

131 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at North Cheyenne Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5 PG13
 37
Route 5 aka The Graduation Crack
Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 140
The Army Route
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 28
Wendy
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 103
Crack Parallel
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 67
Kendlee
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 33
Reality Check
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 39
Climbing By The Brooks
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 58
Balance
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 83
The Men Arete
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 24
Old Aid
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 50
Corrugation Corner
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 25
Rock'n & Riding
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 31
The Full Male Deal
Sport 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 26
Tiger Snap?
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 26
The Disclaimer
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Route 5 aka The Graduation… Graduation Boulder &…
 37
V1 5 PG13 Boulder
The Army Route Pinnacle
 140
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 4 pitches
Wendy S Buttress & Tinseltown
 28
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Crack Parallel W Face (The Pinnacle…
 103
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Kendlee Pinnacle
 67
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Reality Check Silver Cascade Slab a…
 33
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Climbing By The Brooks Amphitheater
 39
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Balance Pinnacle
 58
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Men Arete Pinnacle
 83
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Old Aid Creekside Wall
 24
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Corrugation Corner Pinnacle
 50
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Rock'n & Riding S Buttress & Tinseltown
 25
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Full Male Deal Amphitheater
 31
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Tiger Snap? Pinnacle
 26
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Sport
The Disclaimer Amphitheater
 26
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in North Cheyenne Canyon »

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