Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: US Army, 1950s or so
Page Views: 25,234 total · 98/month
Shared By: Julian Smith on Dec 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Road closure and reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

This route can be done in three or four pitches. Traverse east on the ledge system that runs beneath the north face of the Pinnacle. The start of the route is an obvious, right-facing corner system near the east end of the ledge. The first piece of fixed gear is a long way up in the corner.

Pitch 1. Climb up into the corner, step left at the roof, and go up left to an eye-bolt anchor.

Pitch 2. Step left and go up a left-facing corner. At its top, go back to the right, and climb up a right-facing corner system to a belay anchor up and to the left.

Pitch 3. Meander up deteriorating rock, aiming for an obvious break in the big roof above. Belay when you run into an anchor or feel comfortable.

Pitch 4. This pitch can be combined with pitch 3. Head up the choss rock. When all seems lost, a fixed eye bolt will save the day. Delicately reach up into an solid undercling in the roof. Super good holds and fixed gear abound when you traverse to the right and reach over the roof. This section is very classic and on solid rock to boot.

Head up to the big ledge, sit down, and make a Spencer Tracy belay. Someone forgot to put any anchors here. Scramble over the top and down the back side.

Descend as described for the Pinnacle. See Rock and Ice #95 as a reference. I hope I got all the good parts in. Enjoy!

Protection

This route is mostly protected by fixed eye-bolts. Bring lots of long runners. If the grade is at your limit, you may want to supplement your rack with a few stoppers and camming units to medium size.

Per Ed Anderson: the first pitch has one remaining eye bolt. There are none on pitch 2. This is well-protected with eye-bolts above the deteriorating rock on pitch 3. The first belay is well-protected with 2 bolts. The second belay has one good bolt and one loose bolt. There are no belay anchors at the top  Caution - the ledge near the top has a short section of rebar that has been cut in such a way that it's difficult to see that one side is open.

Photos