Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Bob & Carrie Robertson
Page Views: 3,517 total · 18/month
Shared By: Julian Smith on Aug 12, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

49 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Reopened after flood damage! Details


Balance is located at the highest point of the trail that goes along the base of the Pinnacle. There are also some nice rocks to sit on just out from the base of the cliff. Locate an upside-down crescent that has 3 bolts rising above it to the anchors. Just to the left is a crack with a piton. To the right is a very steep, but short 3 bolt route that has two orange anchors on the slab next to the second bolt on Balance. Balance is primarily a lower angled slab.

With a reach, grab good incuts on the crescent and pull up onto it. Clip the first bolt and head right to get up on the slab. Follow the next two bolts to the anchors.

Eds. the FAs felt this route was 5.9 if you follow the bolts.


Maybe you will need 12 quickdraws, and a 60m rope for sure.


- No Photos -
Balance is definitely a fun one. The routes Julian describes to either side: I know the crescent crack is an old Harvey Carter route, and the short overhang to the right is The Shiiter, a 3 bolt .12a, also fun. Oct 27, 2003
Larry Shaw
Larry Shaw  
Fun route with good holds...felt much easier than war time. Jun 13, 2004
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8+ PG13
jmeizis   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8+ PG13
This route has been extended. From the piton it now goes straight up the headwall on the climbers left. The difficulty is similar. You need a 60m to make it to the ground. Aug 27, 2009
Julian Smith
Colorado Springs, CO
Julian Smith   Colorado Springs, CO
This route has certainly changed a bit. The original set of anchors has been chopped; not sure why they weren't just left in place. You will need many more quick-draws now. Definitely take a 60m rope, too. There might be a couple of feet left over when you get lowered to the ground. Remember to tie a knot in the end of the rope! Sep 14, 2009
England   ?
Definitely will stretch your 60 meter to the limit. As Julian stated above, it's best to tie a knot in the end on the rope when lowering. I thought this was a pretty stiff 5.8. Aug 29, 2010
Chris Dickson
Sometimes Lander and someti…
Chris Dickson   Sometimes Lander and someti…
New top section of this route is fun! Sustained 5.8 for 100+ ft. Now shares anchors with Tiger Snap. May 11, 2011
Tim Burke
Colorado Springs, CO
Tim Burke   Colorado Springs, CO
Julian, will you add the details of the extended route into the description? How many bolts now? How far above the Tiger Snap anchors are the new balence anchors? 60m still works? Apr 14, 2012
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Did this back in June. The extension out left is super fun! I think it's about 5(ish) more bolts to the 2 cold shut anchor atop. Just bring 12 and you'll be fine. As mentioned, a 60 just makes it...definitely tie knots in it. I'd say it goes at .8 or maybe even .9 due to its length. Super fun! Nov 13, 2013
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
Fun climb -- enjoyed the long extension of the original route. Definitely thought it was harder than 5.8, but for me the crux was still the balancey technical move past the 1st bolt (which felt more like 5.9 given my relative lack of balance and flexibility).

The 1st bolt is pretty high. There are big holds to reach the clip, but you probably want a spot, because a fall before clipping that bolt would do some serious damage to your ankles.

Definitely need at least a 60m rope to reach the ground from the anchors. Aug 3, 2014
Matt Chezem
Matt Chezem  
Did this route today. This takes 10 draws the way I did it. I didn't clip the piton, because there is an awesome bolt near it. Some of the hangers (the first 3?) should be replaced.
Good route with a fair amount of variety. Jun 16, 2016
Climbed this route this Monday using the all Colorado guidebook. I set an anchor at the old spot (new bolt hanger and old piton on the right). Due to logistics of party members leaving (i.e. no one left to lead belay), I was unable to lead above to the top and consequently left some gear here (2 slings, 2 biners, 2 quicklinks). Plan to get back out there to grab it this week. If you grabbed it and want to return it, I'd be much obliged. Jul 18, 2017
Graham Montgomery
Colorado Springs, CO
Graham Montgomery   Colorado Springs, CO
Led for the first time today, and this is an excellent route. Much taller than 50'. From the anchors up top, I could see more bolts for a second pitch that lead to to what looks like the belay ledge of P2 of Army. Anyone know what it goes at? Didn't look too tough, might give it a go sometime. Aug 28, 2017