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Routes in The Veil
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Da Kind Escape T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Kindness T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Left at the Altar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Left Turret T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Silver Threads T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Wanderlust T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Zabrina T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,305 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Feb 19, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
The Veil is a castle-shaped rock with a center wall and a turret-like buttress on either side. Wanderlust climbs into and through the crack and corner system between the main wall and the left-hand buttress.
Hike up to the Veil as described and get to the center of the main buttress. The bottom left side is very low angle and has a few left-angling cracks that lead up into a crack and corner system short slot that are steeper; this is the start of the route Wanderlust.
Pitch 1: Pick the most obvious left-leaning crack and move up and left in it into a slot/wide stem with two good cracks. This is the Pitch 1 crux, and it protects with great stoppers (5.6). This is just to the left of a dead tree, perhaps 60' off of the ground. You can climb down and behind the trunk then pull the rope up between the tree and the wall to avoid drag. Move up and left through a series of cracks and dihedrals into a hugh left-facing corner. Belay on gear in this corner, or continue, 130'.
Pitch 2: Climb the easy, left-facing corner (5.4) for 60' up to an overhang and then up and right through the crux overhang, (5.7) for 30' on chock-stones and jams to the summit. This crux protects well with cams or a spectra-sling around a pinch-off at the top of the crack.
Pitch 2 variation (AKA: Wunder-Lost): For more difficulty, take a few large cams to protect a final variant on the crux pitch. When you reach the final overhang, go up a few moves and then cut left on an overhanging, slanting offwidth, 5.9.
Arrange an awkward summit belay. After summiting, step up and left to look down the fabulous Veil Slab, or up and right to chack out the beautiful yellow headwall of Diamond Head (spectacular at sunset).
Walk off to the West (left) from the summit though a fern-gully to a notch at the edge of the wall down a gully and back to your gear. The walk off is a bit jumbled, but is among the easiest and fastest in Eldo, unless it has been snowing. No raps are needed.
Hike up to the Veil as described and get to the center of the main buttress. The bottom left side is very low angle and has a few left-angling cracks that lead up into a crack and corner system short slot that are steeper; this is the start of the route Wanderlust.
Pitch 1: Pick the most obvious left-leaning crack and move up and left in it into a slot/wide stem with two good cracks. This is the Pitch 1 crux, and it protects with great stoppers (5.6). This is just to the left of a dead tree, perhaps 60' off of the ground. You can climb down and behind the trunk then pull the rope up between the tree and the wall to avoid drag. Move up and left through a series of cracks and dihedrals into a hugh left-facing corner. Belay on gear in this corner, or continue, 130'.
Pitch 2: Climb the easy, left-facing corner (5.4) for 60' up to an overhang and then up and right through the crux overhang, (5.7) for 30' on chock-stones and jams to the summit. This crux protects well with cams or a spectra-sling around a pinch-off at the top of the crack.
Pitch 2 variation (AKA: Wunder-Lost): For more difficulty, take a few large cams to protect a final variant on the crux pitch. When you reach the final overhang, go up a few moves and then cut left on an overhanging, slanting offwidth, 5.9.
Arrange an awkward summit belay. After summiting, step up and left to look down the fabulous Veil Slab, or up and right to chack out the beautiful yellow headwall of Diamond Head (spectacular at sunset).
Walk off to the West (left) from the summit though a fern-gully to a notch at the edge of the wall down a gully and back to your gear. The walk off is a bit jumbled, but is among the easiest and fastest in Eldo, unless it has been snowing. No raps are needed.
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