Avg: 1 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||895 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Feb 19, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Hike up to the Veil as described and get to the center of the main buttress. The bottom left side is very low angle and has a few left-angling cracks that lead up into a crack and corner system short slot that are steeper; this is the start of the route Wanderlust.
Pitch 1: Pick the most obvious left-leaning crack and move up and left in it into a slot/wide stem with two good cracks. This is the Pitch 1 crux, and it protects with great stoppers (5.6). This is just to the left of a dead tree, perhaps 60' off of the ground. You can climb down and behind the trunk then pull the rope up between the tree and the wall to avoid drag. Move up and left through a series of cracks and dihedrals into a hugh left-facing corner. Belay on gear in this corner, or continue, 130'.
Pitch 2: Climb the easy, left-facing corner (5.4) for 60' up to an overhang and then up and right through the crux overhang, (5.7) for 30' on chock-stones and jams to the summit. This crux protects well with cams or a spectra-sling around a pinch-off at the top of the crack.
Pitch 2 variation (AKA: Wunder-Lost): For more difficulty, take a few large cams to protect a final variant on the crux pitch. When you reach the final overhang, go up a few moves and then cut left on an overhanging, slanting offwidth, 5.9.
Arrange an awkward summit belay. After summiting, step up and left to look down the fabulous Veil Slab, or up and right to chack out the beautiful yellow headwall of Diamond Head (spectacular at sunset).
Walk off to the West (left) from the summit though a fern-gully to a notch at the edge of the wall down a gully and back to your gear. The walk off is a bit jumbled, but is among the easiest and fastest in Eldo, unless it has been snowing. No raps are needed.