Type: Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: C. Fitch, A. Sharp, 1980
Page Views: 150 total · 10/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 8, 2023
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Kindness is an adventure route from long ago, known and published since 1980.

As of this writing, The Bastille Crack has has 208,197 page views, 6,510 "ticks" and 2,102 quality ratings submitted on MountainProject, while this route had yet to be written up. I figured it was about damn time someone went and climbed it, and so I did.
Beauty is in the eye of the belayer, I suppose. In terms of rock quality and protection aesthetics, this route is far from a classic. In terms of set and setting, and the unique character and climbing on it and in terms of your odds of having the crag to yourself, this route is phenomenal.
For the experienced adventure climber who has alpine experience, the route is good overall. For the beginning trad leader, it is not only no fun, it may be an impending disaster.

To climb this route, first you have to locate it. Just on the right edge of the larges chunk of good rock on The Veil, there lie a series of dark bulges that straddle a crack and flake system. One third the way up that system, it passes and old dead pine. Halfway up that system, it intercepts a very shallow, right-facing corner where you'd think you'd get some pretty good gear...but not really so much.

Start up low angle rock on that system of cracks, first passing a dark bulges on your right, then one on your left to reach that shallow, left-facing corner. Ride this feature to its end at another bulge, which can be passed on easy moved through some loose rock to the left or via harder moves directly through that roof (5.10, PG-13) with a few secure pockets and a big reach with no feet... or traversing hard right under the roof and bypassing it. Once past that roof, continue up to a tree, passing that to go up and left to a large sloping stance with a solid gear belay, This is now 60' below the true summit via a good crack (Da Kind Escape, 5.8) or 80' from the summit via a system up and to the left (the original second pitch, 5.9+, X).

Choose your path to pursue, either the 5.9+ X 2nd pitch, or the more mellow Da Kind Escape, and press onward.
With thunder rolling as we finished P1, we decided to take the easy way off, so a description of P2 waits for yet another day to end up on this site.

Location Suggest change

This route rides up a system of deceptively poor flares, bottoming cracks, and thin flakes for an R-rated pitch before finishing up on series of edges, bumps, and slopers on an X-rated pitch above. The X-rated top pitch may be avoided by taking an alternate finish (Da Kind Escape) which is actually more obvious, or the undocumented corner to the right of that, which is easier still I imagine, but looks pretty dirty.

This line lies between Silver Treads and Forever.

To walk off, head down the back side, and sniff your way North to a notch back to the South side, which holds the start of a rough trail on which you can pick your way back to the base.

You'll want approach shoes for this, not climbing shoes.

Protection Suggest change

A rack from RPs to a #3 Camalot with optional #4. You won't be able to place a lot of good gear, but you are going to want what gear you get. Take extra purple-gold Camalots for the belay.

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