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Cottontail Right
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.2 from 5
votes
Routes in Cottontail Crag
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Arms Race S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bunny Roof S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Bunny Slope S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Cottontail Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cottontail Right T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Destroyer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pay at the Pump S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Watership Down S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Caldwells, c.1990 |
| Page Views: | 1,051 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Feb 12, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is a really fun hybrid route on the narrow west end of the crag. There are 2 cracks on this narrow face. Take the right one which is about 5.9 initially (you might end up doing a few moves in the left crack first, as it's cleaner). Rest, then climb the beautiful 5.11 crack over a roof and up the face until you can clip the first of two bolts where the crack dies out. Slightly overhanging 5.11 face continues up past the bolts to easier but somewhat runnout climbing to a two-bolt anchor. Multiple, varied, 5.11 cruxes and steep rock add up to a great, sustained climb. It's a safe lead but with some big falls possible and some 5.11 moves that would be hard or impossible to aid.
It is possible to climb the obvious 5.easy chimney splitting the crag, then carefully walk over to set up a toprope.
It is possible to climb the obvious 5.easy chimney splitting the crag, then carefully walk over to set up a toprope.
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