Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Caldwells, c.1990
Page Views: 379 total · 2/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Feb 12, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a really fun hybrid route on the narrow west end of the crag. There are 2 cracks on this narrow face. Take the right one which is about 5.8 initially (you'll probably end up doing a few moves in the left crack first, as it's cleaner). Rest, then climb the beautiful 5.11 crack over a roof and up the face until you can clip the first of two bolts where the crack dies out. Slightly overhanging 5.11 face continues up past the bolts to easier but somewhat runnout climbing to a two-bolt anchor. Multiple, varied, 5.11 cruxes and steep rock add up to a great, sustained climb.

It is possible to climb the obvious 5.easy chimney splitting the crag, then carefully walk over to set up a toprope.

Protection

Bring gear to a #2.5 Friend, and save 2 quickdraws for the bolts above the crack.

Photos

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