Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Caldwells, c.1990
Page Views: 977 total · 4/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Feb 12, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is a really fun hybrid route on the narrow west end of the crag. There are 2 cracks on this narrow face. Take the right one which is about 5.9 initially (you might end up doing a few moves in the left crack first, as it's cleaner). Rest, then climb the beautiful 5.11 crack over a roof and up the face until you can clip the first of two bolts where the crack dies out. Slightly overhanging 5.11 face continues up past the bolts to easier but somewhat runnout climbing to a two-bolt anchor. Multiple, varied, 5.11 cruxes and steep rock add up to a great, sustained climb. It's a safe lead but with some big falls possible and some 5.11 moves that would be hard or impossible to aid. 

It is possible to climb the obvious 5.easy chimney splitting the crag, then carefully walk over to set up a toprope.

Protection Suggest change

Bring gear to a #2.5 Friend, and save 2 quickdraws for the bolts above the crack.

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