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Routes in Cottontail Crag

Arms Race S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bunny Roof T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Cottontail Crack T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cottontail Right T,S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Destroyer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pay at the Pump S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, TR
FA: Caldwells, c.1990
Page Views: 85 total, 0/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Feb 12, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Really fun hybrid route on the narrow west end of the crag. There are 2 cracks on this narrow face. Take the right one which is about 5.8 intitially. Then, make a hard move (5.11ish) over a bulge protected by small gear, and move up past 2 bolts with sustained 5.11 face climbing to a 2-bolt anchor. It is possible to climb the obvious 5.easy chimney splitting the crag, then carefully walk over to set up a top-rope.


Bring some small Friends and small-medium stoppers, and save 2 QD for where the bolts above the crack.


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W. Spaller
W. Spaller  
Fired the route to the chains last night and definitely cannot agree with the 11+ rating. It is no harder than 5.11a. Also be wary that after you clip the 2nd bolt you are still far from done, even though that is your last pro. Jun 2, 2010
W. Spaller
W. Spaller  
Awesome route on a beautiful crag! Tried it last night and fell off the last move before it is possible to clip the first bolt and snapped the wire of the small fixed wire about 2/3 the way up the crack. The gear is bomber but took me a lot of effort to place. May 29, 2010