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Cottontail Right

5.11, Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3 from 3 votes
FA: Caldwells, c.1990
Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Cottontail Crag

Description

This is a really fun hybrid route on the narrow west end of the crag. There are 2 cracks on this narrow face. Take the right one which is about 5.9 initially (you might end up doing a few moves in the left crack first, as it's cleaner). Rest, then climb the beautiful 5.11 crack over a roof and up the face until you can clip the first of two bolts where the crack dies out. Slightly overhanging 5.11 face continues up past the bolts to easier but somewhat runnout climbing to a two-bolt anchor. Multiple, varied, 5.11 cruxes and steep rock add up to a great, sustained climb. It's a safe lead but with some big falls possible and some 5.11 moves that would be hard or impossible to aid. 

It is possible to climb the obvious 5.easy chimney splitting the crag, then carefully walk over to set up a toprope.

Protection

Bring gear to a #2.5 Friend, and save 2 quickdraws for the bolts above the crack.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

W. Spaller
5.11a
[Hide Comment] Awesome route on a beautiful crag! Tried it last night and fell off the last move before it is possible to clip the first bolt and snapped the wire of the small fixed wire about 2/3 the way up the crack. The gear is bomber but took me a lot of effort to place. May 29, 2010
W. Spaller
5.11a
[Hide Comment] Fired the route to the chains last night and definitely cannot agree with the 11+ rating. It is no harder than 5.11a. Also be wary that after you clip the 2nd bolt you are still far from done, even though that is your last pro. Jun 2, 2010