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Routes in Cottontail Crag

Arms Race S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bunny Roof S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bunny Slope S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cottontail Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cottontail Right T,S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Destroyer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pay at the Pump S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Watership Down S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: FFA: Jason Seaver, Jim Belcer, 7-18-06
Page Views: 164 total · 1/month
Shared By: jason seaver on Jun 30, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a new and improved (summer 2018) version of a 12-year-old route that was thoroughly neglected in its original form. It was established with just two bolts. It is now a proper sport route (with 6 bolts) and is currently the hardest pitch on the crag. It is marred only by a bit of poor rock in the middle of the pitch but makes up for it with the exceptional stone and movement through the 8 foot roof and hanging headwall above.

Start just left of Pay At The Pump in a short, left-facing corner (Watership Down shares this start and the first bolt).
Climb up into the easy corner, and move out right onto the face to the first bolt. A #3 Camalot can be placed in the corner, but the climbing is straightforward and not difficult. Begin a leftward traverse towards the obvious roof, and tackle the burly terrain through the roof and headwall up to a two-bolt, lower-off anchor.

Location

This pitch starts just left of Pay At The Pump, in the obvious, short, left-facing corner, and climbs diagonally left up to, and out, the big roof near the top of the cliff.

The obvious crack system that leads directly up to the roof is regrettably chossy. I don't recommend starting there.

Protection

6 bolts (optional #3 Camalot at the start).

Photos

John Calder
Spokane, WA
John Calder   Spokane, WA
Climbed here last weekend. We put a TR on this one, and it's a good thing, too. I pulled a huge chunk of dtine off down low. There is a large undercling that is barely on the wall right now. A lot of the rock down low on this is SUPER loose and manky. Be careful. Aug 24, 2007
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
  5.12
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
  5.12
As the description notes, the direct line up to the roof is not the way to go. It is very chossy. Start in the shallow, left-facing corner just left of the start of Pay At The Pump, NOT in the crappy-looking crack line to its left that leads more directly to the roof. Have fun, and be careful.
Forgive my ignorance, but what is "dtine"? Aug 25, 2007
John Calder
Spokane, WA
John Calder   Spokane, WA
Jason, I have no idea what "dtine" is. I pulled off a giant chunk of rock. I don't even know what I meant to type. Should have proofread it. I looked up your route description only after I was taken to the crag by a friend with a foggy memory. Until that day I'd never heard of the place. But what a great little area. Do you know anything about the bolted line on the feature uphill from Cottontail? Sep 20, 2007

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