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Routes in Cottontail Crag

Arms Race S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bunny Roof T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Cottontail Crack T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cottontail Right T,S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Destroyer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pay at the Pump S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: FFA: Jason Seaver, Jim Belcer 7-18-06
Page Views: 69 total, 1/month
Shared By: jason seaver on Jun 30, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Climb up the short, left-facing corner left of Pay At The Pump. Step up and out right onto the face above the corner to a horizontal seam. There are some stopper placements in this seam, but one of them is a little further right than you would hope, so bring some long slings since the climbing leads left from here. Climb diagonally up and left to the first bolt underneath the big roof. From here, some super fun, gymnastic maneuvers lead diagonally left out the roof and onto the perched little headwall above. A little more face climbing leads to a gear anchor in the notch at the top. The R comes from a runout getting to the first bolt (not very hard) and, depending how pumped you are, a difficult and crucial clip at the second bolt.

Location

This pitch starts just left of Pay At The Pump, in the obvious, short, left-facing corner, and climbs diagonally left up to, and out, the big roof near the top of the cliff. To get down, rap off Pay At The Pump's anchor, or downclimb the chimney on the North side of the crag.
The obvious crack system that leads directly up to the roof is regrettably chossy. I don't recommend starting there.

Protection

Bring small wires, a red Alien, and a couple big-hands sized cams. Two bolts in the roof. No fixed anchor - big wires and a red Camalot suffice.

Photos

John Calder
Spokane, WA
John Calder   Spokane, WA
Jason, I have no idea what "dtine" is. I pulled off a giant chunk of rock. I don't even know what I meant to type. Should have proofread it. I looked up your route description only after I was taken to the crag by a friend with a foggy memory. Until that day I'd never heard of the place. But what a great little area. Do you know anything about the bolted line on the feature uphill from Cottontail? Sep 20, 2007
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
 
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
 
As the description notes, the direct line up to the roof is not the way to go. It is very chossy. Start in the shallow, left-facing corner just left of the start of Pay At The Pump, NOT in the crappy-looking crack line to its left that leads more directly to the roof. Have fun, and be careful.
Forgive my ignorance, but what is "dtine"? Aug 25, 2007
John Calder
Spokane, WA
John Calder   Spokane, WA
Climbed here last weekend. We put a TR on this one, and it's a good thing, too. I pulled a huge chunk of dtine off down low. There is a large undercling that is barely on the wall right now. A lot of the rock down low on this is SUPER loose and manky. Be careful. Aug 24, 2007