Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: Gillett/Hill
Page Views: 613 total · 3/month
Shared By: Christian Hill on Feb 3, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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This is the right most bolted line on the South East face of Cottontail Crag and gets good sun until mid afternoon. Most people are happy with just quickdraws but other small gear is available low on the route. Make a 5.10a move passing the first bolt and cruise to the ledge at the third bolt. Things are hard from here on out with the crux coming right at the end. We graded this route a little harder originally but consensus seems to be that this is the least severe 5.11 on the crag. To establish the toprope, scramble up the chimney to the north (brutal 5.3 R) or lead a nice 5.7 R slab just right of Pay at the Pump.


Six bolts to two bolts with chains. If you don't want to run out 5.6 bring a couple small nuts or TCUs for horizontal cracks low on the route.


Actually there are now six bolts on this route; someone put in a bolt between #1 and #2, so that no gear is necessary (weren't you the one to tell me that, Chris? Anyway, you and I climbed it with the new bolt the last time we were there, when Jerry was visiting -- or maybe it was when we went up there with Justin...). For what it's worth, there's also a new bolt and a fixed pin on Cottontail Crack (though that climb is not yet listed on this site), making it a more reasonable lead. Feb 4, 2003
You may be right about the bolt count, Bernard; I think I forgot one after bolt three. As for the second bolt, I placed it in '93 as per our conversation back then. Sorry, if that wasn't cool. Also, I posted this route under the name Christian Hill 'cause that's my name, but someone else is using that name on this site, so I'll go back to my alter-ego now. Geez, I suck at posting. Feb 4, 2003
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Anyone have any info on the TR anchors ten feet left of pay at the pump (and the line under them)? Jul 9, 2008