Type: Boulder
FA: [Steve Mammen or maybe Mark Wilford?]
Page Views: 11,020 total · 52/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Oct 15, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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This is is perhaps the most ultra-classic problem at Carter Lake, and is practically a destination by itself. It's located on the steepest overhanging side of the Kahuna boulder. Start with your hands matched on the large half-moon hold, find a way to stick the sloping shelf a few feet up, and then crank a couple more solid moves to top out. Like much of the rest of Carter, it's on fantastic rock, the landing really couldn't be any better, and the moves are truly spectacular. Definitely one of the Front Range's best problems.


A crashpad or two will be plenty for this problem.
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
I'm really not up on my Front Range bouldering history, so maybe someone a little more knowledgable can help me out with the first-ascent info for this one. Dec 4, 2001
I think it was Steve Mammen or maybe Mark Wilford. Dec 5, 2001
Adam Holmes  
Definitely one of the best sandstone problems around. A variation to Kahuna Roof moves to the slopers then move right along the lip. I heard it was called "Turtle Head". I don't know the grade. Seems harder than Kahuna roof. Apr 2, 2002
I heard that the crimp at the top of the route has now been broken off. Dec 18, 2003
Yup, the crimp on the face below the lip is gone. The lip is good, so it doesn't affect the difficulties much. Dec 18, 2003
Did this on my first visit to Carter. Couldn't do it on my second visit. I hate that! Aug 26, 2004
Tom C  
I flashed a V7 and did Tommy's Arete (V7) the day before and couldn't pull near the second move on this. So, I'm not sure about the grade. Ahem, sandbag. Jun 19, 2006
That problem is sick! A must do! The hardest part of the problem is the second move to the right hand sidepull, after that it's not really too bad. Sep 17, 2006
This is the perfect boulder problem.
Not a single flaw. Apr 5, 2007
Right side pull has broken for second move. Still goes but after all the breaking in the recent years, most would probably consider this to be V6 or maybe even V7. It is a classic though, so maybe V5 should always remain not that that makes much logical sense. Jan 26, 2009
Spencer Anderson
Fort Collins, CO
Spencer Anderson   Fort Collins, CO
I was on Kahuna recently now that the water is low enough (freaky rain this year) and the side pull seems the same as it was last season. I've always felt that V5 was a bit of a sand bag but certainly not V7. Jul 9, 2009
Jon Roberts
Jon Roberts  
This problem took me three sessions and felt like V6+, but I was using some crazy heel beta that had me hanging on the second hand hold for way too long. I went back and sent it again with a drop knee to get the second hold and then bumped asap to the good crimp above. This way is much easier, but still harder than V5 I think. This is one of those problems that feels easy when you master it. Dec 17, 2009
Beautiful, exactly how V5 should feel. Jan 31, 2010
Cesar Valencia  
Sending Kahuna! This route was amazing. Great movement from start to finish. This one is not over till it's over. It's stiff for a V5 IMO, but either way it's great.

youtube.com/watch?v=z9uJfU8… Apr 19, 2012
Nederland, CO
ROCKMAN2   Nederland, CO
Sand. Bag. Oct 17, 2016
Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
This was a classic, but I have this sinking feeling (pun intended) it's on its way out. I climbed this as far back as 1988, and it's not the same problem - not even close. It's rather sad this climb is no longer a historical yard stick as the Kahuna boulder has moved a number of times over the years.

Kahuna boulder in the last few years sank about two to three feet and tilted downward on the westward side about 10° (i.e., it's steeper). It feels much harder now, V7, and the quality is not as good and sadly likely to deteriorate further as the block is underwater at least half the year. Oct 15, 2017
Aaron Ramras
Aaron Ramras  
I did this before it tilted and now again after, and I would argue that although the first move is not as cool (as Joseph pointed out), the rest of the problem is much more interesting and technical now that it is steeper. In my opinion... V7 and just as good as before...for now. Dec 4, 2017