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Routes in Big Ass Slab?

Assmosis T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coloradoddity S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Critical Morass S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stout Blue Vein S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Rick Thompson & Chris Lesher, July, 2001
Page Views: 5,363 total, 27/month
Shared By: Jeff Lockyer on Nov 7, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


98 Opinions

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Description

This route lies just uphill from the bolted 5.6/7 slab, Coloradoddity. It can be started with a ledge just off the ground before the first bolt, from here climb to 2 bolts and then traverse to the right approx. 6 feet and follow the bolt line to the top of the cliff. The crux comes at the traverse, and climbing straight up through the 2/3/4 bolt could be a little harder than 5.9+ as the feet are very slippery and precise. This is a good route but not worth 3 stars comparing it to the route just right and left of it. A great warmup route to do some of the more harder routes at Jurassic Park. Clean rock and a decent line, minus the little traverse.

Protection

7 bolts + 2 bolt anchor.
Sarah Meiser
Boulder, Colorado
 
Sarah Meiser   Boulder, Colorado
 
I didn't think the traverse was contived at all. When I did the climb, the obvious hand ledge traverse seemed like the natural way to go. Fun, thoughtful, & well protected, it makes the climb. The rest is way easier. If you're going to skip the traverse, then don't bother doing the climb. Aug 25, 2012
Jonathan Reeves
Golden, Colorado
  5.8+
Jonathan Reeves   Golden, Colorado
  5.8+
Transverse is fun but contrived between bolts 2 and 3. Easy after that. I would say its 5.9ish at the crux but 5.6 everywhere else. Sep 20, 2009
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
Traversing from bolt 2-3 is thin, fun and thoughtful. (5.9ish). After that the route pretty much turns into a walk, but still worth doing just for the bottom section. Aug 16, 2009
Tits McGee
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Tits McGee   Boulder, CO
  5.8
If you average the moves in between the third and fourth bolt (5.9ish) with the rest of the climb (5.5ish) you get a 5.8 - Fun route wish it had more 5.8ish moves. May 18, 2009
Christina kalb
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Christina kalb   Boulder, CO
  5.8
The difficulty of this route depends on how you climb it. Traverse a bit left of the 2nd bolt for a 5.8 climb, or go right, for a harder 5.9 or 5.10 version. Jun 2, 2008
Debbie Vischer
Loveland
  5.9-
Debbie Vischer   Loveland
  5.9-
I agree with Eric. This route seemed more like a 5.9 to me, given the moves required thru bolts 2/3/4. I travered right after bolt 2, and pulled a tough move to bolt 3. Feet placement is thin - need to trust your feet and the rock!

Fun route with gorgeous views. A must do at Jurassic. May 5, 2008
Eric Brehm
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Eric Brehm   Boulder, CO
  5.9
The crux section -- hand traversing to the right below the second bolt on small cling holds and then stepping up to the third bolt -- is way out of character with the rest of the route, which is considerably easier. We felt this section was harder than 5.8. For me it was like doing a boulder problem in the middle of what would otherwise have been a fun romp up a lower angle slab. The hanger on the second bolt is loose -- I wonder if this is an indication that leaders have taken falls here when they were surprised by the difficulty of the traverse. Sep 18, 2007
willied
Loveland, CO
willied   Loveland, CO
This climb is much easier than 5.9. My partner is 6'4" and thought it was as easy as Coloradoddity! I found the crux around the second bolt to be 5.7 - 5.8. Still, it was a fun climb. Oct 8, 2006
Rick, you have a serious sandbagging problem. Aug 3, 2004
I'm going along with Rick's call on the rating for this one. The only way you could possibly get a 5.8 even would be to climb the first 3 clips to the right of the bolts. Great route, perfect rock, perfect view !! May 5, 2002
Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Rick Thompson   Mount Nebbiolo, CO
This one's called: THE STOUT BLUE VEIN we thought it was 5.7+, but like any route should be graded what the concensus of people think it is. Sport climb, seven bolts in all. FA: Rick Thompson & Chris Lesher, July, 2001 As with COLORADODDITY a 50 meter rope will barely get you to the ground. Two stars - good call!

There is also a variation finish: 5.6, maybe harder given that all the routes we did on this face seem to be checking in harder than we thought they were. Description: After the second bolt aim directly up and join COLORADODDITY. FA: Rick Thompson, July, 2001. Jan 30, 2002