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Routes in Big Ass Slab?

Assmosis T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coloradoddity S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Critical Morass S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stout Blue Vein S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Rick Thompson, Sam Davidson & Pat Thompson, July 4, 2001
Page Views: 321 total, 2/month
Shared By: Jeff Lockyer on Nov 7, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

This mixed line starts just uphill from the obvious clean bolted slab. The bottom of the climb is protected in a flake with natural gear until reaching bolts which lead to the 2 bolt anchor. This is a decent route and the climbing is generally [straightforward], along with the gear. You may want a 60m rope to [rappel] the route, can't exaclty remember the length of rope left over, but to be sure, as most of the other routes on this wall, preferred to use a 60m. Not necessary to bring gear to this crag, but if you do, this will be an enjoyable route.

Protection

Mixed route - Pro to 2" and then bolts (approx. 5) before 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Hiro Kurotsuchi
Colorado
 
Hiro Kurotsuchi   Colorado
 
The climbing is fun, the gear is not. Climbing the crack isn't 5.9+ difficulty, placing gear in it is. Agree that small cams are good, I did place nuts too but figured the quality of the rock made them sketch. Could have placed a #3 further up, so you can rack 0.2-#3 if you want to have lots of choices. By small cams, I think everybody means 0.4 and smaller, at least that's what I experienced.

My follower really enjoyed the climb - crack, gear, slabby bolted section, and good mix of styles I guess. Jun 11, 2015
I also thought the gear placements were fine. Placed 3 cams, but the crack section seems easy, so 2 would be fine. Regarding the rating; if The Edge of Time is also 5.9, this is not. However, I figured TEoT at roughly 10b, and I'll call this 5.9- or just plain 5.9 with the crux right after the first bolt. Jun 26, 2012
Peter Swank
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Peter Swank   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Good flaring crack at the start. I put in a #0.4 and 1 C4. There are four bolts above the crack. Some good slab when you transition off the crack, but then it backs off at the top. Oct 12, 2010
Mark Cushman
Cumming, GA
 
Mark Cushman   Cumming, GA
 
Small cams work best in the crack, I placed two of the smaller Master Cams (TCUs would work, too) in the crack and they were bomber. No need for bolts down low, the rest of the climb is bolted safely. Jun 13, 2009
Jay Eggleston
Denver
Jay Eggleston   Denver
The pro in the flake will hold a fall. The placements are not straightforward, due to the flaring nature of the crack, but they are there. Mostly small cams. Oct 7, 2006
Definitely low-balled. 5.9+ is fair. Pro in the flake is worthless, wouldn't hold a fall. There should be a bolt lower to protect the flake section. Otherwise, good route. Aug 3, 2004
Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Rick Thompson   Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Route Name: ASSMOSIS - we called this one 8+, but like its three brothers to the left, maybe we low-balled this grade as well. Two stars as well. FA: Rick Thompson, Sam Davidson & Pat Thompson, July 4, 2001

The route name refers to the process by which some people absorb success and advancement by kissing-up to the boss rather than working hard. Cams up to #3 protect the initial flake, with four bolts on the upper face. Start just right of CRITICAL MORASS and climb the left-facing flake until it peters out. Clip a bolt, and mount the ramp (optional pro). Move up to clip the second bolt, and initiate slabbing action past three more bolts to anchors (shares anchors with CRITICAL MORASS). 95 feet. Caution, 60 meter rope REQUIRED! Jan 30, 2002