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Routes in Middle Ice Caves (Potato Routes)

Do The Mashed Potato aka Acquitted S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hot Potato S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Merry Maids S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Small Fry S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spuds in Space S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vortex aka Fat Slags S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Nelson & Wright, 1992
Page Views: 5,349 total · 27/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 6, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Unmistakable, Merry Maids crops up about 200 feet from the ice cave and fires up the corner of a colorful, left-facing dihedral. This rock is still a little sharp, but it has been getting more friendly with use. Big blocks lead to an interesting stemming problem that will dump you off the corner at three quarters height. Negotiate a small bulge just below the anchor.

It is a good warm-up, gets good sun, and has acceptable but not outstanding rock.

Protection

A dozen draws and a rope.

Photos

Excellent route. Easiest .10 at Rifle Mar 27, 2004
B.J. Sbarra
  5.10a
B.J. Sbarra  
  5.10a
Fun route, easier for taller folks. Aug 2, 2004
This route is in desperate need of bolt replacement. Multiple bolts wiggling in holes, loose nuts, etc. Easy route, but scary protection currently. Sep 22, 2009
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
All of the lead bolts got replaced during the Rifle Cleanup 2010 with fat stainless hardware courtesy of the ASCA. Aug 25, 2010
Curtis Summers
Fort Worth Texas
  5.10a
Curtis Summers   Fort Worth Texas
  5.10a
I love, love, love this route !!! I was there 9/5/2013. About 10-15 feet off the ground is a loose, bowling ball size rock that is loose. Don't grab it. That's what the big X on it means...other than that, enjoy ! Jan 30, 2014
D. Scott Clark
Boulder
 
D. Scott Clark   Boulder
 
Really fun crack climbing on bolts. Stretchy crux. Jun 26, 2017
S. Neoh
5.10a
S. Neoh  
5.10a
Thanks to all for the new hardware (even tho they were installed a few years ago). Very nice route. The crux is somewhat height-dependent, but there are a lot of choices for high feet. Sep 1, 2017

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