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Routes in Middle Ice Caves (Potato Routes)

Do The Mashed Potato aka Acquitted S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hot Potato S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Merry Maids S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Small Fry S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spuds in Space S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vortex aka Fat Slags S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Herman Gollner? P. Colin McGraw?
Page Views: 2,837 total · 15/month
Shared By: Unassigned User on Jul 6, 2002
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is 10 feet to the right of Hot Potato. It is a well-protected, straightforward route. All of the bolts have great holds/feet to clip in from, except for the second to last one which is the crux. The best part of the route is at the top following a crack for about 6 feet to the chains.

This route is not in the guidebook that I have (Bite the Bullet by Dave Pegg), so if anyone has the info on FA, name or actual rating, please update.

Addendum: according to P. Colin McGraw, Herman Gollner bolted this route, but he related that he didn't climb it.

Protection

8 bolts to a 3 chain anchor.

Photos

Hey, I cleaned this route! I pried some huge loose flakes off with a crowbar.

Anyway, a little history: the City of Rifle's recreation department wanted to start a climbing program around the year 2000, but all the routes in Rifle were too hard for beginners. I worked for them that summer and went around trying to recruit someone to bolt an easier route and along came Herman Gollner (a truly great guy) to volunteer.

He pretty much bolted it pro bono, only charging for the hardware if I recall, and the irony is that he was busted by the city the year before for illegally bolting "Crime and Punishment"; a fact I nervously withheld from the rec department given that he was the only dude nice enough to help the city out!

On a side note, Herman told me that he bolted but didn't actually climb the route, so I may have actually bagged the first ascent. I wanted to call it "Acquitted" as a sequel to the whole "Crime and Punishement" thing, but Dave Pegg's guidebook came out with the redub and credit to Herman, so there went my claim to fame in the area. Oh well.

I still think some of the greatest time in my life was spent working routes in Rifle. May 28, 2011
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
 
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
 
First ascent of Do The Mashed Potato: Herman Gollner. Nov 20, 2007
Dustin Bauer  
5.7
Fun little route with one or two intersting moves at the second to last bolt. The rest is around 5.6. Jun 2, 2004
This route is named Do the Mashed Potato, and the real rating is 5.7, great route for beginner lead. May 22, 2003