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Routes in BBC Boulder

101 Conquistadors V6 7A
Across V0 4
Balance in Nature V5-6 6C+
Breaking Point, The V3 6A PG13
Campus Corner V2-3 5+
Devil's Work V9 7C
East Warmup V1 5
Flesh Fest (STAND) V6 7A
Fleshfest V9 7C
Grapple in the Grundel City V4+ 6B+
Grundel City Boy V9 7C
Krampus Corner V5 6C
Lawn Dart V0 4
Lefty V0 4
Mailslot, The V4 6B
Major Tom V3- 6A
Original Grapple V4- 6B
PIP's Dyno V? ?
Re-Entry Burn V6 7A
Righty V0 4
Smooth Ride V5 6C
South Warmup V0 4
Space Oddity V0 4
Sudden Change V5-6 6C+ PG13
Turning Point, The V8 7B
Zero G V5 6C
Type: Boulder
FA: Tim Walburn
Page Views: 3,813 total, 19/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Oct 18, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

A slappy problem on the BBC boulder under The Turning Point, just to the left of Original Grapple. Start sitting in a nook using 2 crimps then hug your way past the opposing sidepull system eliminating the detached blocks to the right and left.

Stellar, but somewhat contrived.

Protection

A pad in the nook, and one over a rock to the left will do ya dandy.

Photos

Cesar Valencia  
  V10
Beta video for Grundel City Boy, V10:

youtube.com/watch?v=BgNTV79… Nov 18, 2017
Cesar Valencia  
  V10
I've tried this boulder for a long time now. After doing every other V9 in this area multiple times, I honestly don't believe this boulder is V9. Felt like V10 to me. This could be due to my height/reach. Anyway, I finally did it today with some alternative beta using a toe hook instead of the heel hook which gave me just enough reach to get to the crack. I also used a terrible left hand sloper instead of the big pinch to make this sequence work. Super fun climb, IMO. Glad to finally put it away. Mar 6, 2016
Matt Battaglia  
  V9
It seems that 2 grades should be posted for this problem: with crack (V9) and without crack (V10/11). With crack, one gets a good foot for the otherwise powerful opening sit sequence and then when the slopers turn foul you bust a hard move left back to safety in the crack. Talking to others who have done/tried this way the consensus seems to be V9ish (with crack). The straight up way, no crack, eliminates the foot and jug at the opening sit sequence and then forces a big move off horrible pinches and crimps to gain the lip and finish. Consensus on this one seems more like V10/11. Anyone feel much different about the grades?
--Battaglia May 5, 2010
jj
jj  
Just an update: the best flake on the climb was pulled off sometime in January (?), making the line much more difficult for those who blast straight up. It may (or may not) add a single grade for those who use the heel-hook beta. Now, instead of popping to the missing undercling flake, reach further to the hidden jugs/left edge of the boulder.

--j.jaeger Feb 26, 2003