Avg: 2.4 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Joe O'Laughlin and Bob Jensen, 1969|
|Page Views:||923 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||George Bell on Jun 8, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a fun route on the steep, south face of the Finger Flatiron. Although the East Face was closed in the summer of 2001, this face was open. This route follows a left-slanting, incipient crack/ramp system. Due to the diagonal nature of the route, falls could be nasty even for the follower. There are some runouts but not really too bad for a Flatiron route. The 5.8 section is short, but good route finding skills are needed to stay on the easiest line. This route gets a lot of sun and is often climbable even in winter.
Approach either by getting into the gully west of the Finger Flatiron (see Finger Flatiron description) or by climbing from Mallory Cave to the notch between the Shark's Fin and Finger Flatiron (5.0). Note, however, that this latter route was closed in the summer of 2001 to protect bats.
Begin just east of a large chockstone. Climb up to the diagonal seam/ramp, and follow it up and left, and belay after 110' where another crack angles up to the right.
Continue up the ramp and place some gear. The crux move is now an awkward traverse back to the left. Beyond this, consider carefully the easiest line, and seek out places for pro. The easiest way seems to be near the left hand edge of the ramp (but somewhat runout). Soon you will arrive on a large ledge below the summit.
You can belay here, and then do a final short pitch (or scramble unroped) back east through a hole to emerge on the summit. However, you can also continue pitch 2 to the summit, following the same crack all the way from the ground. This involves an awkward left leaning crack which goes through an overhang, 5.8-5.9 but well-protected. If you opt for this alternative, you can belay on the summit.
Rap 60' NW from some slings to the ground.