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Routes in Finger Flatiron

Dropline TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
East Face Right/Finger Flatiron T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
East Face/Finger Flatiron T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Just Right TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Mere Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monodoigt T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No "Tufa" Ones Here? TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Northwest Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nude Figures in a Hollow Fruit S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Patience S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Polydoigt TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Right Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South Side of the Sky S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Thicker T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thinner T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: TR, 85 ft
FA: Rui Ferreira, Dave Turner 11/10/07
Page Views: 91 total, 1/month
Shared By: Rui Ferreira on Nov 11, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

The climb has two distinct sections with the lower face being about 5.7 with the most difficult moves coming at the shallow, left-facing corner at the end of the starting ramp. The upper section of the climb is the obvious dihedral, which starts in the slab directly above Monodoigt. Climb through bulging rock on some fun crystals and pockets to get established at the base of the dihedral. A combination of stemming and layback moves gets you to a rest position on the left arete half way up the dihedral. From here, layback the left arete, or stem across when possible to the right arete to reach the top. There are two spots of 9+, 10- climb in the dihedral section. Some of the rock in the upper dihedral is still friable and will clean up with traffic. We did minimal cleaning.

Location

The route starts about 15ft to the right and around the corner from Thinner on the WSW side of the Finger. The climbing begins on a narrow, left-to-right, rising ramp and continues upwards following the most obvious line aiming for the upper, overhanging dihedral. (A variation is to start on Monodoigt and continue into the upper dihedral).

To get down, break down the toprope anchor and rap off Nude Figures in a Hollow Fruit.

Protection

To set up the top rope anchor use the rappel station on Nude Figures in a Hollow Fruit. (This can be backed up with some Camalots #2-#3 and use your own webbing besides the slings already there). Run about 15ft of webbing to the pinnacle edge (W) and use some additional webbing to loop the pinnacle to position the top rope. A blue Alien or a nut can be used as a directional near the pinnacle (SW side of ridge). The first half of the climb can be led on trad gear; the upper dihedral lacks any gear placements.

Photos

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