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Routes in Finger Flatiron

Dropline TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
East Face Right/Finger Flatiron T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
East Face/Finger Flatiron T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Just Right TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Mere Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monodoigt T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No "Tufa" Ones Here? TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Northwest Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nude Figures in a Hollow Fruit S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Patience S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Polydoigt TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Right Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South Side of the Sky S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Thicker T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thinner T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Steve Annecone, Lisa Montgomery, Kevin Murphy, Nov. 2017
Page Views: 83 total · 22/month
Shared By: Steve Annecone on Nov 27, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details


This wild and steep route goes up the center of the highly featured south face, crossing the Mere Wall route near its middle. The route name was inspired by an old Yes song.

Start at the vertical, pebbly face behind a tree. Head up easy terrain to the high first bolt about 25 feet up. Blast up the steep face through the crux moves past bolts 2 and 3. Some interested pockets, pebbles, and features lead up and left to the first pitch rap anchor.

A second pitch is in development. It crosses the Mere Wall route about 10 feet above the first pitch rap anchor, then like the first pitch, it heads straight up before eventually trending left to a notable pillar feature. It's about 11+ and should be finished up this winter.


The best approach is to take the standard climbing access trail that forks off near the Mallory Cave. Follow this trail up past the Red Devil and the Box, then go left (south) at the top. Stay right of the cave/boulder, heading down a gully just west of the Finger maybe 50 yards. At the Monodoigt and Thinner routes, head east up the short gully, then scramble down a steep 4th Class gully to the base of the south face. Start at the very bottom of the south face, about 15 feet left (west) of the massive boulder.

Rappel or lower back down to the base, then reverse the approach out.


7 quickdraws for bolts on the first pitch. There is a two bolt rap anchor at the tops of both pitch 1 and 2.



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