South Side of the Sky
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Steve Annecone, Lisa Montgomery, Kevin Murphy, Nov. 2017|
|Page Views:||83 total · 22/month|
|Shared By:||Steve Annecone on Nov 27, 2017|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis wild and steep route goes up the center of the highly featured south face, crossing the Mere Wall route near its middle. The route name was inspired by an old Yes song.
Start at the vertical, pebbly face behind a tree. Head up easy terrain to the high first bolt about 25 feet up. Blast up the steep face through the crux moves past bolts 2 and 3. Some interested pockets, pebbles, and features lead up and left to the first pitch rap anchor.
A second pitch is in development. It crosses the Mere Wall route about 10 feet above the first pitch rap anchor, then like the first pitch, it heads straight up before eventually trending left to a notable pillar feature. It's about 11+ and should be finished up this winter.
LocationThe best approach is to take the standard climbing access trail that forks off near the Mallory Cave. Follow this trail up past the Red Devil and the Box, then go left (south) at the top. Stay right of the cave/boulder, heading down a gully just west of the Finger maybe 50 yards. At the Monodoigt and Thinner routes, head east up the short gully, then scramble down a steep 4th Class gully to the base of the south face. Start at the very bottom of the south face, about 15 feet left (west) of the massive boulder.
Rappel or lower back down to the base, then reverse the approach out.