Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 164 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 14, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route is pretty fun and the moves are unique and position really cool, but it needs more traffic. With more traffic or even a good old-fashion brush-down, it would be 2 stars. At present, it is worth doing, but not a destination climb.

Approach the NW corner of the Finger Flatiron. You will see some free-standing flakes rising out of the ground near that corner- from there a right-leaning crack (hand-to-fist) goes up and right below a massive roof, to a 2-3" crack at the lip of the roof, at its narrowest point, about 1/2 meter.Climb up this system protecting on a few fist-sized cams and whatever else you can fidget in (5.8). We cleaned a small fixed nut that was surprisingly well placed and seemed good. Turn the roof (5.7) at a solid cam placement and get established above the roof (5.8) and fidget in some gear. Proceed left on a tiny foot ramp (5.8+) or right and up (5.8+) either way a little balancy and above gear at times, but without any dangerous fall potential if you place what is available. The straight-up option goes directly to a rap anchor, but passes some potentially dangerous loose rocks-beware.

The rap anchor above "Nude Figures" (to the south) was re-enforced for the second time in as many years and seems solid. The anchor directly above this climb was total crap, save one piece of cordalette. I removed 3 pieces of webbing that were already 100% severed or chewed through, and one that was brittle and 60% chewed through. This anchor needs one more good piece and more of the crap removed. I ran out for the day after replacing other anchors. If you do the climb, please attend to this. And beware- there is a nylon loving critter up there trying to kill off inattentive climbers.

Protection

A light standard rack. If you like to sew it up, take an extra #3-3.5 Camalot or a 4" piece.

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