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Routes in Finger Flatiron

Dropline TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
East Face Right/Finger Flatiron T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
East Face/Finger Flatiron T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Just Right TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Mere Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monodoigt T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No "Tufa" Ones Here? TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Northwest Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nude Figures in a Hollow Fruit S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Patience S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Polydoigt TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Right Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South Side of the Sky S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Thicker T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thinner T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 73 total, 0/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 14, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details


This route is pretty fun and the moves are unique and position really cool, but it needs more traffic. With more traffic or even a good old-fashion brush-down, it would be 2 stars. At present, it is worth doing, but not a destination climb.

Approach the NW corner of the Finger Flatiron. You will see some free-standing flakes rising out of the ground near that corner- from there a right-leaning crack (hand-to-fist) goes up and right below a massive roof, to a 2-3" crack at the lip of the roof, at its narrowest point, about 1/2 meter.Climb up this system protecting on a few fist-sized cams and whatever else you can fidget in (5.8). We cleaned a small fixed nut that was surprisingly well placed and seemed good. Turn the roof (5.7) at a solid cam placement and get established above the roof (5.8) and fidget in some gear. Proceed left on a tiny foot ramp (5.8+) or right and up (5.8+) either way a little balancy and above gear at times, but without any dangerous fall potential if you place what is available. The straight-up option goes directly to a rap anchor, but passes some potentially dangerous loose rocks-beware.

The rap anchor above "Nude Figures" (to the south) was re-enforced for the second time in as many years and seems solid. The anchor directly above this climb was total crap, save one piece of cordalette. I removed 3 pieces of webbing that were already 100% severed or chewed through, and one that was brittle and 60% chewed through. This anchor needs one more good piece and more of the crap removed. I ran out for the day after replacing other anchors. If you do the climb, please attend to this. And beware- there is a nylon loving critter up there trying to kill off inattentive climbers.


A light standard rack. If you like to sew it up, take an extra #3-3.5 Camalot or a 4" piece.


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