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Routes in Willy B

East Face/Willy B T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Swing Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Uncle Nasty (AKA: Willy B. Direct) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Willy Warmer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 235 total, 1/month
Shared By: Warren Teissier on Oct 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

I would give this route an S rating but both Rossiter and Roach did not.

Whether you started the climb at the lower spacious ledge above the overhang or on the next ledge up. The goal is to reach a large block located at the center of the face. There is also a large tree close to the block. The pitches to reach the block are easy 5.2 but covered with lichen. After chimnying up the block, you will be confronted by a large, left-facing dihedral that ends in a large roof.

The guidebooks recommend setting up the belay at the block, but as this made for a short pitch, we continued 40 feet up the dihedral and made a delicate unprotected 5.4 traverse left on pebbles to turn the roof on its left side. From there, a quick scramble down onto a ramp enabled us to set a belay on a decent crack (190 feet, 5.4). There is supposed to be a bolt here, but we did not see it.

Climb up the ramp some 20 feet and overcome a vertical, 6 foot wall (crux) on the right. There is some pro at this point, but I wouldn't want to test it. The crux move deposits you back onto the East face. Once there, find a crack running up the center of the face and climb one more easy pitch to the top.

We set up a belay at the crack and top roped the East Face route pitch (5.8S) that differs from Swing Time (see East Face route).

Protection

Standard Flatiron rack up to a #3 Camalot. Small TCUs will protect the crux.
Brian C.
Longmont, CO
  5.7 R
Brian C.   Longmont, CO
  5.7 R
Make sure you don't traverse too far up the ramp if you want to find the 5.7 way up. It is not very far up the ramp, just past a large dead tree coming up from below. Although the move is short, the gear is iffy, and a fall would be mega-bad news and likely onto your belayer. I got a seemingly decent offset cam in right at the crux, but I'm not convinced it would have held. After pulling onto the east face, traversing hard right will lead to a nice crack to protect your seconds before heading for the summit. No gear other than that on the last pitch. Fun times!

EDIT: We did not find a single fixed piece on the route other than the summit rappel anchor. Jul 21, 2013
JamesB  
We climbed Swing Time and took the alternate route that goes up the south ramp almost to the summit before exiting to the right, onto the east face. The pro up the south ramp is thin and I wouldn't want to fall on it. There is a piton about half way up the ramp. I think this might be the piton mentioned in the Rossiter guide although it is further up the ramp than the guide had led to me to expect. The Rossiter guide had suggested belaying from this piton but we belayed further down where you first step onto the south face. The rap bolts are in good condition and one 60 m rope down the south face easily got us to the bottom. Apr 25, 2006
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
I have always assumed this route was the same as Rossiter's Dihedral, but this is just from comparing the two guides (Rossiter and Roach). May 15, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.7
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.7
This route appears to be the same as "Dihedral" in Rossiter's book. Can anyone confirm this to be the case? May 15, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
An alternative way to finish this route is to continue up the ramp (rather than exiting right). The is easy but exposed since you are climbing above the south face. When you are below the summit itself, head up and then right to finish on the last few feet of the east face. Nov 13, 2001