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Routes in Willy B

East Face/Willy B T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Swing Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Uncle Nasty (AKA: Willy B. Direct) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Willy Warmer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R


Willy B is a thin pinnacle located South West from the Third. [The base of Willy B is almost as high as the top of the Third. As seen from afar, Willy B is the Western most pinnacle located between the Third and the Fouth and is actually closer to the Fourth.] It is very close and to the left and uphill of the Morning After rock also known as the Needle's Eye.

The rock on Willy B is good overall but does have an abundance of [lichen] particularly on the lower pitches. The pinnacle is uncharacteristically steep for a flatiron formation. Also, the two documented routes on it are harder than the average East Face routes at 5.7 and 5.8 S

The 5.7 route known as Swing Time is a lot of fun although a bit run out.

There is a brand new rappel set up with two good bolts and a chain. Rappel 80 ft West or 90 ft North. We rappelled 100 feet South with our 60M rope barely reaching the bottom. The rappel set up although new, is ackwardly placed too close to the lip of the summit, making for a really uncomfortable rappel start.

The gully North of Willy B is not hikeable, we hiked down the South side.
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Getting There

There is a variety of ways to get to Willy B. We hiked up the Royal Arch trail all the way to Sentinel pass. From there we bushwhacked uphill with a general North West direction. Willy B is about 300 yards up the hill.

You can also reach it by heading West/ South West from the Royal Arch trail where it switch backs and there is a painted sign on a large boulder that says Royal Arch Trail with an arrow pointing left. This direction will take you past the Eyes of the canyon and Morning After.

Both routes on Willy B start on the south side and traverse onto the East Face about 200 feet from the bottom of the slab. When you get to the bottom slab it'll be hard to see the whole pinnacle. Scramble up the gully on the left/South side of the slab. You can start the climb where a huge ledge crosses the East face above an overhang or you can do it a pitch higher by scrambling up some boulders and onto a nice ledge, saving yourself a [licheny] unprotected 5.4 pitch.

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Cody Munger
Carson City, NV
Cody Munger   Carson City, NV
We were able to rappel with plenty of rope to spare with a 50m rope straight west along the ridge. If you do run out of rope you can do a second rappel by slinging your rope around a boulder on the first ledge you land on. The other comments had me thinking we were in for an epic downclimb because our rope might have been too short. Feb 24, 2009
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
I came in from the right, not knowing what to expect, and climbed a lichenous corner to a stance under a roof, there was a squeeze chimney uption above me, but wearing a backpack, I stepped around to the left and after that singular exposed move, chimneyed, stemmed, laybacked up 20ft of dihedral onto the slab.

Farther up I came to the choice between a slab ramp ascending the right, or the slab dihedral ascending the left. A crack in the dihedral would provide protection, I climbed straight up the slab to the left corner under a 6ft headwall where an eyed angle piton was located. Then traversing R to the crack mentioned in Uncle Nasty, I pulled the crux and slabbed to the top.

The view on the summit is gorgeous at dusk. Jun 14, 2007
Does anyone know anything about the bolted route on the south side of The Willy B? I remember that is was well bolted at the bottom but then the bolts ran out and had to trad the rest of the way. At the time (ten years ago?) it appeared an unfinished route and perhaps it has had the uper section bolted by now. The rock had really cool huecoed features. Jan 10, 2006
Rap south from the bolts and a 60-meter rope works, though with just a couple feet to spare. Sep 3, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
The best possible way to do this route (closures not withstanding), is to start by climbing The Thing and rap off to the South- then hike 50 yards to the beginning of Willie B. May 6, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Clip in with a sling or daisy as you try to get established in the rap. Also. clip in a few slings to step down into. Step into the slings, yard on the daisy, and drop down onto rap- then unclip all of it and go. It is agreed that this is complex and would have been unnecessary with more thought put into anchor placement.

a 70M rope will put you down on the N. Side. I had my doubts about a 60M. May 6, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Agreed, starting rap off the top is one of the most awkward I have ever experienced. Much worse than the Maiden. At least the anchors are bomber. Oct 5, 2001

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