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Routes in Willy B

East Face/Willy B T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Swing Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Uncle Nasty (AKA: Willy B. Direct) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Willy Warmer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Tom Hornbein, 1948
Page Views: 534 total, 3/month
Shared By: Warren Teissier on Oct 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route shares the initial pitches of Swing Time up to the top of the block. At this point, the routes separate for a pitch only to join up at the hand crack North of Swing Time's crux.

From the block, climb the 10 foot, South-facing wall of the dihedral and uncling your way onto the East Face (5.8 S).

An improbable hollow flake on the face immediately after the crux offers the last protection opportunity for the next 100 feet. Climb the narrow steep East Face up thin/licheny holds until you reach the hand crack where Swing Time and the East Face route merge (5.6 S, although I would give it a VS rating). From here, an easy pitch gets you to the summit.

We opted to toprope the East Face's 5.8 S pitch from the handcrack while climbing Swing Time.

Protection

Standard Flatiron rack. A small TCU may protect the exit of the crux.

Photos

- No Photos -
F.A. Tom Hornbein, 1948. Mar 12, 2013
Paul Kemp
Boulder, CO
Paul Kemp   Boulder, CO
I recently free-soloed Willy B (ascended Swingtime route w/ alternate finish up the ramp, downclimbed the east face). Somewhere between thrilling and terrifying. Anyways, there is indeed at least one really questionable flake located directly above the roof on the east face. Be careful: it's about to come off. Oct 1, 2008
Jim Berg
  5.8-
Jim Berg  
  5.8-
The crux pitch starts up the short crack on the arete of the dihedral. A # 3 Camalot [adequately] protected the crux moves onto the slab. Above that it's spicy but only 5.6 in spots. Nice pitch. A 60m rope is just long enough to reach the anchors at the top. Aug 19, 2005
Good route but an "s" for sure, especially for the second. After pulling the roof, there is no good pro for like 30 feet to act as a directional to keep the second from swinging into the dihedral. Some gear can be placed in some questionable flakes right after the move. These pieces would probably be OK as directionals but luckily we didn't have to find out. Also, I remember wishing I had Aliens. May 17, 2004
I rope- soloed this route several years ago. I got a good cam just before the crux, then some opposed nuts way out on the right edge about 30 or more feet later (probably not worth the trouble). The climbing on this face is just steep enough and sweet.

S or vs means "don't fall" to me. Apr 6, 2004
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
5.8 R
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
5.8 R
If you do this route, you should jump on the East Face of The Thing 5.7 for a nice linkup. Addendum: this isn't an X climb, more like R. Mar 31, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
I do not remember this route being as acary as Warren indicates. We led the route, and you can get bombproof pro in right before the 5.8 crux, so those moves are well protected. It is true that you then have to run it out for maybe 80' on 5.6 slab climbing. A fall here would not be fun. Nov 13, 2001