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East Face/Willy B [Suggest Change]
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British X
Avg: 2.5 from 4
votes
Routes in Willy B
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East Face/Willy B T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Swing Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Uncle Nasty (AKA: Willy B. Direct) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Willy Warmer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
| FA: | Tom Hornbein, 1948 |
| Page Views: | 563 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Warren Teissier on Oct 1, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click herebouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl… for the latest in raptor closures.
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click herebouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description [Suggest Change]
This route shares the initial pitches of Swing Time up to the top of the block. At this point, the routes separate for a pitch only to join up at the hand crack North of Swing Time's crux.
From the block, climb the 10 foot, South-facing wall of the dihedral and uncling your way onto the East Face (5.8 S).
An improbable hollow flake on the face immediately after the crux offers the last protection opportunity for the next 100 feet. Climb the narrow steep East Face up thin/licheny holds until you reach the hand crack where Swing Time and the East Face route merge (5.6 S, although I would give it a VS rating). From here, an easy pitch gets you to the summit.
We opted to toprope the East Face's 5.8 S pitch from the handcrack while climbing Swing Time.
From the block, climb the 10 foot, South-facing wall of the dihedral and uncling your way onto the East Face (5.8 S).
An improbable hollow flake on the face immediately after the crux offers the last protection opportunity for the next 100 feet. Climb the narrow steep East Face up thin/licheny holds until you reach the hand crack where Swing Time and the East Face route merge (5.6 S, although I would give it a VS rating). From here, an easy pitch gets you to the summit.
We opted to toprope the East Face's 5.8 S pitch from the handcrack while climbing Swing Time.
Photos
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Boulder, CO
Westminster, Colorado
S or vs means "don't fall" to me. Apr 6, 2004
Boulder, CO