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Routes in The Shakespearean Theatre & Revolution Buttress

Lives of Quiet Desperation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 R
Butterfly McQueens' Birthday TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jamuary T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
King Fear T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mind Meld S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Much Ado About Bolting S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Revolution, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shakespur S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Taming of Shoe, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Two Hangdogs of Verona, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: R. Hanson, toprope, 1989 . Bolted and led by T. Hanson, 1990
Page Views: 60 total, 0/month
Shared By: Tom Hanson on Sep 28, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route is on Revolution Buttress, a series of faces and cracks to the right of the landmark black water streak. The Drain, a classic bouldering traverse, lies immediately left of this line.

Protection

Four bolts. The first bolt is sixteen feet up, so be careful. The crux is after the second bolt.

Photos

At the crux (second bolt), I kind of went straight up and to the right over the roof, still within clipping disance of the bolt to the left. This felt maybe 10b, and I then had to traverse left a ways to clip the third cold shut. I suppose going left at the second bolt to the third is the intended way, but I couldn't tell--not much traffic here, didn't see any chalk on these climbs. Dec 30, 2003