Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Unknown (Hanson et. al?)
Page Views: 102 total · 1/month
Shared By: Dan Mottinger on Dec 27, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This steep crack, to the immediate right of Butterfly McQueens' Birthday provides a long crack with several short crux sections between good to decent rests. Although it is flared, it has enough non-flared placements to protect it well with nuts and fingers to hand-sized cams. One bouldery move leads to a good ledge where the fun begins, go up the crack using jams and face holds and cobbles. The crux comes 3/4 of the way up and involves pulling over a roof using face holds while reaching for jams above. This is one of the better trad lines I've been on at Castlewood--steep climbing up a continuous crack that offers good pro.

Note: The line I marked Jamuary in the beta photo is really Butterfly McQueens' Birthday, Jamuary is the obvious, marked crack below and right of the Jamuary label in the pic.

Protection

Standard rack up to #2 Friend. Offsets could help but are not necessary. Bring a really long sling or extra rope to anchor this climb. You might be able to anchor off The Revolution's cold shuts, but these are not accesible from the top.

Photos

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