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Routes in White Twin

North Face TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
South Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
West Face S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
West Face Direct TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: FA: Paul Radigen, 1950s FFA: Harvey Carter, 1950s
Page Views: 3,155 total, 16/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Aug 23, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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23 Opinions

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2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This has a tricky start and is a little frightening. It can be toproped after leading the South Ridge. Climb up the steep north ridge on big holds.

Protection

Fixed pins, stoppers, small to medium cams.

Photos

Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Led this today for the first time in a quarter century. Placed green and red Aliens before the first pin and something between the pins. All placements looked good to me and pretty sure the rock would hold. If you're solid at 5.8, go ahead and lead this one. Great climb with just the right amount of spice. Aug 25, 2011
bigwallrog
the farside
bigwallrog   the farside
I agree much better to TR, this opens up the whole North Ridge for a whole lotta fun....
If you lead it, you're going to be placing gear in the only good holds until you get above the first ring angle pin. Nov 6, 2009
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7 R
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7 R
There are one or two very old pitons, and you can probably find a few places for cams as well. But, I top roped it with my son after climbing the South Ridge first. I enjoyed this route as much, or more, than the South Ridge. It looks harder than it really is, and I highly recommend it. Nov 1, 2008
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.7 PG13
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.7 PG13
The R rating may be a bit generous. PG-13 might be better. You can get 4 cams in addition to the 2 pins. A green Alien to start then a #1 Camalot out left before the pin, 2 more cams between the pins. The crux is between the ears. The old Rolofson guide gives it a 5.8R. Jun 3, 2005
Larry Shaw  
 
IMHO, this is the best route on the rock with cool moves and hand fitting holds. Nov 19, 2003
...[Probably] a better idea to climb [South Ridge] and then TR this cause any pro pretty much takes up room for you to put your hands and feet. Oct 3, 2002
10b/c - I stand corrected. I don't know where I heard the 11a rating, but I'm sure beer was somehow involved :-) Apr 29, 2002
Chris R  
The crack, mentioned by the previous writer, is on the narrow North Face of the White Spire. If you stay in the crack (as much as you can call old pin scars and pockets a crack), the line goes at about 5.10b/c. It is difficult to protect on lead, for the reason that if you place pro in a pocket, it leaves no room for your hands.... This is, however, a fun little 5.10 TR. It feels very bouldery, and doesn't let up until you top out. Resist the temptation to move to the right, where the jugs are! Stay in the seam for the full effect. A worthy effort. Apr 26, 2002
This one is a lot of fun. You can pretty much make it as hard as you want - stay directly on the NW arete of white spire for the .7 rating - the farther left you go on the ridge the harder it is. Supposedly staying on the thin finger crack that runs directly down the center of the N. Ridge goes at about .11a(ish), but I've never tried it. Apr 23, 2002