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Routes in White Twin

North Face TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
South Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
West Face S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
West Face Direct TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, TR, 45 ft
FA: Harvey Carter and Art Howell, 1960s?
Page Views: 2,315 total, 12/month
Shared By: Barrett Cooper on Mar 8, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This route is located on the west side of White Spire in the center of the Garden. It follows the line of the protection and is listed at a 5.8 in my guidebook, although it would definitely feel harder on lead due to the zig-zag nature of the route. There are three manky looking pins on the west face if you are wanting to lead this climb. The first pin is on the left of the face about 15 feet up and the second pin is to its right and another 15 feet up. Both of these pins are obvious from the ground. The third pin is hidden on the right side of the face in a small pocket about 10-15 feet above the second. The easiest and safest way to do this route is to lead climb the 5.6 South Ridge of White Spire and set up a toprope. While not very complicated, this route does require a bit of balance and is a nice toprope to do, since you will already be set up if you have led the north or south side climbs on White Spire.

Per Stewart M. Green: The "West Face" of White was a Garden testpiece back in the late 1960s. There was a parking area on the Gateway Road just east of Red and White, so it was convenient and always lots of folks congregating there to climb, to BS, or to watch. There was of course, no paved trail or stone wall at the base, just dirt. There are actually 3 starts to the route. The left start with the old piton is the "Dudley Start," named for first ascender Mike Dudley. The middle start was first climbed on top-rope by who knows who...I did it in 1968. The right start is "Kor Start" climbed in 1964 by Layton Kor and belayed by John Auld on one of Kor's forays to The Garden. From the ledge with the piton on its right side, several other variations happen. You can climb up left on shallow, rounded scoops on the "Muff Traverse," named for first ascensionist Steve Cheyney in 1971. We all worked on that baby trying to get the first ascent. I did the direct (toprope) up to the pothole below bolt 3 in 1974 and declined to rate it since it seemed off the chart for the ratings at the time. It's very bouldery.

Protection

There are three pins on the west face if you choose to lead the route, but it can be set up as a toprope from the two other easier routes on White Spire.
This wandering route is much harder than 5.8. Not worth the time. Mar 2, 2008
I would like to concur with Dan Russell about the height thing. I am 6' with ridiculously long arms, and I found the first few moves on the left start very easy.

It's a nice bouldery route and very fun on a toprope. I wouldn't recommend leading it without some trad gear. (The route can be done without the monos, you just have to get creative and look for alternatives.) Mar 14, 2004
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.9 R
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.9 R
Tried this a vue yesterday as a GOG virgin. Fun, committing for 5.8, solid. Better rock c/w Red Spire, Montezuma's, 3 Graces. 5'10" or taller makes it easier but still felt 5.9 R. 1st pin is a stretch at 5'10". It seemed best to hand traverse until below 2nd pin. A #2 Camalot slot up & right of pin 2 in the line suggested (retrospectively) by M. Rolofson's guide. Dec 7, 2003
Larry Shaw  
 
Felt like an .8 or .9 but really not that bad. There is decent pro at all the hard spots, but there is a little pendulum risk after the second bolt if you traverse right then back left. After the mono and before the undercling, there are 2 or 3 good intermediate crimps to ladder up on. I thought the upper section was harder than the bottom. Next time I climb it I'll check out the direct route like Green suggested. Nov 19, 2003
It's a 5.10 route alright, but that's with the upper moves if you climb the face directly. Those first moves aren't 5.10, though they are kind of height-dependent. Unless you're short, the mono is just for balance while you jump from your feet to the undercling. I could be wrong on this, as it's been several years since I did it. Sep 7, 2003
IMHO, this route is not 5.8. I spent the better part of the Spring and Summer climbing 5.8-5.10, and while this route finishes in the 5.8-5.9 range, the first several moves are in the 5.9-5.10 range. I can't say that I have seen a 5.8 with a mono pull. I will comfortably sport lead 5.8 and can lead 5.10. This route feel 5.10 to me, and I will not lead it. Sep 7, 2003
The "West Face" of White was a Garden testpiece back in the late 1960s. There was a parking area on the Gateway Road just east of Red and White, so it was convenient and always lots of folks congregating there to climb, to BS, or to watch. There was of course, no paved trail or stone wall at the base, just dirt. There are actually 3 starts to the route. The left start with the old piton is the "Dudley Start," named for first ascender Mike Dudley. The middle start was first climbed on top-rope by who knows who...I did it in 1968. The right start is "Kor Start" climbed in 1964 by Layton Kor and belayed by John Auld on one of Kor's forays to The Garden. From the ledge with the piton on its right side, several other variations happen. You can climb up left on shallow, rounded scoops on the "Muff Traverse," named for first ascensionist Steve Cheyney in 1971. We all worked on that baby trying to get the first ascent. I did the direct (toprope) up to the pothole below bolt 3 in 1974 and declined to rate it since it seemed off the chart for the ratings at the time. It's very bouldery. Apr 28, 2003
I liked all 3 routes on this rock, it's very solid. This route is a one move wonder. I'm tall, and it felt like a 5.8 to me, but my partner is about 5'6, and it was considerably harder for him. I pulled on the mono by the first pin, and there are 2 holds right by each other about a foot above the mono that are decent. Grab the undercling with your left hand and walk your way up to the traverse. The rest of the climb is easier. Dec 12, 2002
David Danforth
California/Colorado
David Danforth   California/Colorado
The west face isn't very difficult, but it's a lot of fun. Do the south ridge first, though. Use the two pins (and bring 1 0r cams along if you want the extra security.) Both the south ridge and the west face are worth the time. Oct 22, 2002
Given the fact that over half of this route has groundfall potential (the second pin is 2/3 of the way up the face, and a fall while clipping it would almost certainly have you smacking the deck), AND because there isn't much in the way of placements, I'd be tempted to give this route an 'R'. Maybe I'm just a puss. Mar 22, 2002