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Routes in White Twin

North Face TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
South Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
West Face S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
West Face Direct TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: [1st lead - Don Peterson in 1972]
Page Views: 1,375 total, 7/month
Shared By: Chris R on Sep 17, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

I originally commented on this route in the "North Ridge" comments section, then I climbed the route again and decided it was worth its own description.

The line is pretty obvious--the North face of the White Spire is pretty narrow. The squeezed line goes up the incipient crack (finger pockets).

To access it, scramble on top of a detached boulder and cruise up the narrow pockets. The line gets the 5.10 grade only if you avoid the tempting jugs and good feet to the right--those are all part of the 5.7 North Ridge line. It is kind of slippery, in that the rock is comprised of tiny pebbles cemented together. It is fun enough and unique for The Garden.

Protection

It can and has been led, but for my money, it is better as a TR. Placing good pro fills the only available finger pockets.

Photos

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iceman777
Colorado Springs
iceman777   Colorado Springs
Yes lead it, hell I have witnessed a climber SOLO IT ! Sep 9, 2012
Craig Nelson
sioux city, iowa
  5.9+
Craig Nelson   sioux city, iowa
  5.9+
Lead it. come on. Jul 11, 2011
Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
Another fun variation is to lay-back off the left arete, just left of the crack/seam/piton scars. The lower down you try to start this, the more difficult. Again, good to TR. Oct 12, 2008
First lead ascent was by Don Peterson in 1972, followed by Helmut Hussman and Stewart Green. It's best top-roped.... Aug 2, 2004