Access Issue: 2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details


These are the short spires in between the Gateway Rocks. They nearly touch, but one is bright red and the other is white and the rock quality is totally different. The White Twin Spire has one of the most popular moderates in the park, and there is some bouldering on the Red Twn Spire, as well as some routes that stay in the shade.

Addendum: to help make this subarea work with the L->R sorting, we've split this into the Red and White Twins.

Getting There

From the main parking lot, walk on the paved trail in between the Gateway Rocks. The Twin Spires are obvious and have a paved trail circling their bases. You belay from the sidewalk.

White Chalk is not allowed!

The Park staff want to remind the climbing community that white chalk (calcium carbonate) is prohibited in the park due to visual impact. While any chalk use is discourage, chalk substitute that does not discolor the rock may be used. Eco balls are sold at the Visitor Center.

When placing closure signange/notifications, our park rangers noted chalk stains on several routes in the closure area (Anaconda and Grapefruit Dance), as well as the Blowouts bouldering area (which were cleaned last year, meaning all the chalk here is new). We are again hoping that the community can come together and address this issue before it requires any action on our part. Access may come into play! We'd also like to thank the PPCA for their efforts to remove chalk stains in these areas last year and hope that local climbers might consider helping them remove chalk stains from the rock this season- check their website for more info on upcoming events- pikespeakclimbersalliance.o….

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Classic Climbing Routes at Twin Spires

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Weather Averages

Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season
A traverse around both rocks is a V2. Jan 20, 2003
I wouldn't ever want to lead this (but then I am a wuss). I climbed this one in the dark a few summers ago & have had a thing for the route ever since. This is a route that anyone who climbs white spire should do at least once - one of these days I'll have to get up the north face. Feb 26, 2004
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
I have some old pics of us on the spires from 1990 way before they paved any of this. Man, I miss the garden. I'll see about scanning in my photos and getting them up here. :) Mar 25, 2008
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
I've always wondered if anyone has jumped these great little towers? Earl Wiggins years ago at Jose Muldones told me someone had. I would assume the leap would be from Red to White. Jun 25, 2008
The jump from white to red is very simple there is a ledge to land is heady, the red to white is the hard jump, because it is easy to go to far. Lots of people have done the jumps. I have done both. Sep 25, 2008
Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
Gear Alert - see my photo above - one of the three pitons on the anchor for the Red Spire has come out. The other two seem fine, but given the amount of traffic here, perhaps we should get this fixed. Stewart - wanna take me up there with you to get this done? Sep 22, 2009
Jim Dunn and I replaced the anchor piton the other day. I placed a 5/8-inch sleeve bolt on the west side of the summit and drilled another hole to put a glue-in Petzl bolt in next week. It was pretty jingus with just the two old pitons on top. Sep 28, 2009
Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
Thank you, Stewart and Jimmie! Oct 2, 2009
England   ?
GEAR ALERT! The quick-links that Jimmie and Stewart installed just a couple of years back are worn through about 75%. Careful! Jan 29, 2011