Type: Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 13,907 total · 51/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jul 30, 2001 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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18 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

This route follows the standard descent route, so get an early start. You will want to be on the last pitch by the time the folks on the northest ridge route finish. There is some loose rock at the end of the first rap. To get to the start of the climb, scramble up the east side of Sharkstooth. There are great views looking down at the Petit Grepon from the start of the climb.

Locate the start of this climb by hiking to the saddle between Sharkstooth and the Petit.

P1. Scramble up the start of the gully and work out a belay on the right side of the headwall. (easy 5th Class).

P2. Make a rising traverse to the left through the headwall. Continue upwards, and belay above a 25 foot, right-facing dihedral. (185 feet, 5.4)

P3. Scramble up through some lower angle rock and belay on the right side of the next headwall. (~100ft, easy 5th Class)

P4. This is the best pitch of the climb. I think that there are other variations, but this is how we climbed the route. Angle left through the headwall and end up on the prow. Peek over the edge, and check out the amazing exposure. Head straight up the arete with steep face and crack climbing. There are a few fixed pitons on this pitch. This pitch gets three stars. Make sure you let your partner get the first lead, so that you can lead P2 and P4. They are the best pitches on the climb.

Descent: a single 60m rope will provide 4 rappels to reach the start of the climb.

Protection Suggest change

Light rack to 2 inches.