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Routes in Sharkstooth
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Cathedral Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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East Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Northeast Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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South Prow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Valhalla T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Variable T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 14,216 total · 50/month |
| Shared By: | Guy H. on Jul 30, 2001 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
This route follows the standard descent route, so get an early start. You will want to be on the last pitch by the time the folks on the northest ridge route finish. There is some loose rock at the end of the first rap. To get to the start of the climb, scramble up the east side of Sharkstooth. There are great views looking down at the Petit Grepon from the start of the climb.
Locate the start of this climb by hiking to the saddle between Sharkstooth and the Petit.
P1. Scramble up the start of the gully and work out a belay on the right side of the headwall. (easy 5th Class).
P2. Make a rising traverse to the left through the headwall. Continue upwards, and belay above a 25 foot, right-facing dihedral. (185 feet, 5.4)
P3. Scramble up through some lower angle rock and belay on the right side of the next headwall. (~100ft, easy 5th Class)
P4. This is the best pitch of the climb. I think that there are other variations, but this is how we climbed the route. Angle left through the headwall and end up on the prow. Peek over the edge, and check out the amazing exposure. Head straight up the arete with steep face and crack climbing. There are a few fixed pitons on this pitch. This pitch gets three stars. Make sure you let your partner get the first lead, so that you can lead P2 and P4. They are the best pitches on the climb.
Descent: a single 60m rope will provide 4 rappels to reach the start of the climb.
Locate the start of this climb by hiking to the saddle between Sharkstooth and the Petit.
P1. Scramble up the start of the gully and work out a belay on the right side of the headwall. (easy 5th Class).
P2. Make a rising traverse to the left through the headwall. Continue upwards, and belay above a 25 foot, right-facing dihedral. (185 feet, 5.4)
P3. Scramble up through some lower angle rock and belay on the right side of the next headwall. (~100ft, easy 5th Class)
P4. This is the best pitch of the climb. I think that there are other variations, but this is how we climbed the route. Angle left through the headwall and end up on the prow. Peek over the edge, and check out the amazing exposure. Head straight up the arete with steep face and crack climbing. There are a few fixed pitons on this pitch. This pitch gets three stars. Make sure you let your partner get the first lead, so that you can lead P2 and P4. They are the best pitches on the climb.
Descent: a single 60m rope will provide 4 rappels to reach the start of the climb.
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