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Routes in Sharkstooth
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Cathedral Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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East Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Northeast Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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South Prow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Valhalla T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Variable T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade V |
| GPS: | 40.2808, -105.674 |
| FA: | old school |
| Page Views: | 1,876 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Jamie Tuck on Sep 6, 2020 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
The 1st pitch starts 30 to 40 feet left of the Sharkstooth Northeast Ridge route. The start is the dihedral with good, protectable cracks. I personally did it as a variation of the Northeast Ridge due to a traffic jam.
If you stay left of the corner cracks and on the face more, there is a small roof that can make it feel very 5.7+ or even 5.8 - this is also on the first pitch.
The 2nd pitch starts above that roof. There are bail off anchors there if needed. The rest of the climb stays just to the left of Northeast Ridge. For pitches 3 and 4 continue straight upward parallel to the Northeast Ridge route until you gain ridgeline.
Descend with standard rappels, 50m on each rap station. Double ropes are preferred.
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