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Death and Transfiguration
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.9 from 119
votes
Routes in Green Mountain Pinnacle
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2 Minutes? That's IT? T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Death and Disfiguration T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Death and Transfiguration T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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East Face/Green Mt Pinnacle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Faith and Resurrection T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Green Sneak T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Salsa Verde S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Takin' Care of Business/ West Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Transgression T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Vertical Military Crawl T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | Roger Briggs and Luke Studer, 1972 |
| Page Views: | 28,627 total · 100/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on May 30, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
Twenty years ago, when we did not have as many bolts or as many routes, a few omnious lines stood head a shoulders above the rest, challenging, defiant, and implacable. Death and Transfiguration was one of these routes. The old Erickson guidebook, and tattered Bible, describes climbing DT as a "renaissance of extinguished arm strength", and I have never forgotten that turn of phrase. The photo of Roger Briggs stemmed under the roof could leave us sleepless and in a sweat of anticipation the night before. The history alone would be worth the walk to DT.
Perhaps more like 75 feet than 100 feet, DT fires up the middle of the GMP yellow, West-facing wall. Mostly 5.10 climbing through an irregular, right-leaning crack takes you to the roof at 60 feet. Most of the guidebooks will describe pulling the roof as the strict technical crux. I thought that the traverse right under the roof was more cruxy and harder to protect, done mostly on wires. Load up the roof crack with Camalots and it will feel very secure. It is not a big roof by Rifle standards, but around here, it is pretty husky, and it does keep going on and on. The upper section of the crack through the roof will take some Friends in the #2 - #4 range. Swim on up over the roof and into the sun and just revel in a brilliant line.
While "only 5.11", DT still earns its reputation among climbers of every generation. This is a full-on classic single pitch line and as great a piece of climbing history as Boulder has to offer.
Photos
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