Type: Trad, 75 ft (23 m)
FA: Roger Briggs and Luke Studer, 1972
Page Views: 24,408 total · 103/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on May 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


93 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Twenty years ago, when we did not have as many bolts or as many routes, a few omnious lines stood head a shoulders above the rest, challenging, defiant, and implacable. Death and Transfiguration was one of these routes. The old Erickson guide, and tattered Bible, describes climbing DT as a "renaissance of extinguished arm strength", and I have never forgotten that turn of phrase. The photo of Roger Briggs stemmed under the roof could leave us sleepless and in a sweat of anticipation the night before. The history alone would be worth the walk to DT.

Perhaps more like 75 feet than 100 ftee, DT fires up the middle of the GMP yellow West facing wall. Mostly 5.10 climbing through an irregular right leaning crack takes you to the roof at 60 feet. Most of the guides will describe pulling the roof as the strict technical crux. I thought that the traverse right under the roof was more cruxy and harder to protect, done mostly on wires. Load up the roof crack with Camalots and it will feel very secure. It is not a big roof by Rifle standards, but around here it is pretty husky and it does keep going on and on. The upper section of the crack through the roof will take some Friends in the #2 - #4 range. Swim on up over the roof and into the sun and just revel in a brilliant line.

While "only 5.11", DT still earns its reputation among climbers of every generation. This is a full-on classic single pitch line and as great a piece of climbing history as Boulder has to offer.

Protection

Bring a full rack. Some hardy souls walk off, but a trashy old anchor (now updated with new bolts & Metolius rap hangers) will let you rap safely West about 70 ft or so.

Photos