Type: Trad, 75 ft (23 m)
FA: Roger Briggs and Luke Studer, 1972
Page Views: 28,155 total · 102/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on May 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Twenty years ago, when we did not have as many bolts or as many routes, a few omnious lines stood head a shoulders above the rest, challenging, defiant, and implacable. Death and Transfiguration was one of these routes. The old Erickson guidebook, and tattered Bible, describes climbing DT as a "renaissance of extinguished arm strength", and I have never forgotten that turn of phrase. The photo of Roger Briggs stemmed under the roof could leave us sleepless and in a sweat of anticipation the night before. The history alone would be worth the walk to DT.

Perhaps more like 75 feet than 100 feet, DT fires up the middle of the GMP yellow, West-facing wall. Mostly 5.10 climbing through an irregular, right-leaning crack takes you to the roof at 60 feet. Most of the guidebooks will describe pulling the roof as the strict technical crux. I thought that the traverse right under the roof was more cruxy and harder to protect, done mostly on wires. Load up the roof crack with Camalots and it will feel very secure. It is not a big roof by Rifle standards, but around here, it is pretty husky, and it does keep going on and on. The upper section of the crack through the roof will take some Friends in the #2 - #4 range. Swim on up over the roof and into the sun and just revel in a brilliant line.

While "only 5.11", DT still earns its reputation among climbers of every generation. This is a full-on classic single pitch line and as great a piece of climbing history as Boulder has to offer.

Protection Suggest change

Bring a full rack. Some hardy souls walk off, but a trashy old anchor (now updated with new bolts & Metolius rap hangers) will let you rap safely West about 70 ft or so.

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