Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Jim Erickson (?date?)
Page Views: 1,716 total · 10/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 21, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a decent route despite the lichen on it. The bottom of it is littered with large grey flakes of lichen, the kind that crackles like leaves, not the sort that turns to dust. It is absent from the crack and the holds you'd want to use. The top is cleaner, and I've brushed it down a bit to clean it up. The route felt clean enough and solid afterwards, though our passage probably more resembled a first ascent than a romp up a clean trade route. The mashed stopper fixed 5 meters up the route, is a reminder of ascents past, however.

Significantly downhill on the North face from Death and Transfiguration, and beyond Salsa Verde, there is a left facing corner. Flakes of grey lichen are in the start, but are absent on the upper portion of the route. As the crack goes up, it hits a significant roof about 8 meters up. This has an excellent handcrack (for thin hands, or a tight #2 camalot) and is in a bomb-bay stem-box to keep things moderate. The crux is pulling the lip and getting up into the low-angled handcrack above.

Protection

A set of cams from 1.5" to 3" and a few slings.

Photos