Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,066 total · 5/month
Shared By: George Bell on Jul 18, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a surprisingly short route for the east face in the Flatirons (only a little over 1 pitch). There is also only a single hard friction move, otherwise the climb is much easier.

Directly south of the summit of the Last Flatironette is a gash in the middle section of the Fourth Flatiron called Fern Alley. Scramble up into this gash, until just below a huge flake wedged diagonally in Fern Alley. Rope up, and climb some huge jugs out of the north side of Fern Alley. You are now on the East Face of Green Mountain Pinnacle, but a smooth slab bars progress. Traverse north below this slab (crux), then climb easily up the face, joining the Green Sneak route after about 100', and then continuing to the top.

Descent either by the Green Sneak route or rap 80' NW to the ground.

Protection

Light rack.

Photos

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XOG
XOG  
I noticed a nice looking hand crack about 10' past the regular start to this route when I went up to do it. I wasn't inspired by the regular start, especially unroped, and decided to try the crack. It went at about 5.2 (or F4) - I'd recommend it. Mar 15, 2004
Dylan Oliver
Longmont CO
Dylan Oliver   Longmont CO
Don't finish on Green Sneak. Mantel up onto the flake (or jump across to it) chocked in the bottom of the Taking Care of Business chimney's east entrance, and take care business. Green Sneak is the downclimb! Aug 31, 2018