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Routes in Spiral Staircase area

8mm T M7
Big GB S M5
Boxed In (aka Stemcicle) T,S WI5- M6+
Dragon's Tongue T,S WI5+ M7 PG13
IMAPNISS WI4+ M5
Lil' GB S M4+
Little Feat S M6+
Log-Jammin' T WI3-4 M4-5 R
Menora T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI4 M4-5
Pink Funhouse S M7
Public Masturbation S M8
Rust Never Sleeps S WI5- M5+ PG13
Secret Probation T WI5 M6
Slabutt T WI3+
Spiral Staircase T WI4-
Titties 'n' Beer S WI5- M7
Tourette's T WI4- M6
Unnamed S M7
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice
FA: Pete Tapley, '93 or '94
Page Views: 1,532 total, 10/month
Shared By: Dan Battin on Jan 21, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a short route located about fifty yards left of Slabutt. It has a quick overhang off the ground, then there is three bolts worth of slab. Pull the lip to very moderate ice. The crux is the slap.

Protection

Three bolts to one or two short screws.

Toprope Protection

Bolt anchors under the large roof.

Photos

Princess Mia
Vail
  WI4- M6
Princess Mia   Vail
  WI4- M6
It is nice to have new bolts. Thanx!

One comment, it is pretty cruxy getting to the second bolt, and if falling there, a grounder is possible and for sure the belayer will get totally skewered by the leader's poons. I say be very, very careful and attentive there. Jan 31, 2012
Is this the same Pete Tapley who is one of the featured climbers in Alpinist 36, Hyalite Canyon? Oct 30, 2011
Rob Griz
Frisco
  WI4+ M6 PG13
Rob Griz   Frisco
  WI4+ M6 PG13
The bolts have been replaced by the local contingent. The original bolts were 3/8 by @ 1" long, self-drilling style with a sleeve. They snapped off pretty easily with a few blows of a hammer. They have been replaced with 3/8 by 4" long Rawl 5-piece expansion bolts. Climb safe and enjoy this classic line! Mar 14, 2011
climber76
Loveland/Vail, CO
WI4- M6+ R
climber76   Loveland/Vail, CO
WI4- M6+ R
This year the ice is far above the last rusty bolt. Pulling onto the ice requires a couple of super powerful moves. Blowing the moves above the bolt would be an ankle breaker. Traversing in from Dragon's Breath and placing a 22cm screw with a long sling to clip at the crux would be a reasonable option to improve the safety. Nice new anchors. The bolts on the slab are pretty rusty. Feb 7, 2010
Brad Grohusky
Frisco, CO
 
Brad Grohusky   Frisco, CO
 
...[This route was done in] a high water season in which the route to the right of Tourette's came in (Imapness). It since then has been marginal drips and not really worthy of any attempts. Even Tourette's seems thinner than back in those years. Feb 8, 2005
Matt Juth
Evergreen
 
Matt Juth   Evergreen
 
This line is getting a bit overclimbed. A lot of the hooks are now pick width gouges giving it a manufactured feel. The 3" ledge below the ice is also shedding a few chunks. Gotta love the soft stone! Feb 8, 2005
...A helpful hold broke from just below the overhang last year, upping the ante a bit. Slab climbing w/ crampons and tools is really fun. Take your meds.... Jan 24, 2005
Dan Battin  
 
I am not sure about the M rating. I [guessed] M6 because of the delicate crux. Oh yeah, I [meant] the crux was the "slab" not the "slap" Jan 23, 2005