WI3-4 M4-5 R
Avg: 2 from 17 votes
|Type:||Trad, Mixed, Ice, 45 ft|
|FA:||Paul Sibley and Steve Pomerance|
|Page Views:||1,723 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Dec 31, 2004|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionTo the left of Spiral Staircase are a series of at least 8-10 ice & mixed lines. This line is the first set of these just left of Spiral Staircase by perhaps 50-60 feet and right of Slabutt by perhaps 90-100 feet. Here lies at least 3 starts and 2 finishes of intriguing combination of lines. There, however, can be little if any protection available for the finishes. Addendum: some rap slings have been added that hang over the lip and from branches to the right.
Now for the name: The 2 guidebooks as of 2004 give contradictory information. In J. Roberts' Colorado Ice, there does not seem to be information regarding this line. In C. Burns' Colorado Ice Climber's Guide,, there is a suggestion that this is called "Unnamed Verglass" or "Spiral Stairs Smears" based upon the photo, but it describes that as brushy, which this is not. J. Roberts' guidebook suggests "Unnamed Verglas" lies further East. Nonetheless, this route, whatever it is called (addendum: now named Log Jammin' per Jack, thanks!), can be an entertaining TR and a serious lead.
The starts lie 1) in an angling traverse from the left, 2) a thinnish ribbon of ice to a dead tree, or 3) a crack to thin smears on the right. From the midpoint, you can a) go up in a flaring crack on the left or b) move right into a corner with gradually thickening ice. The finish to the anchor lies above yet another dead tree with frozen dirt sticks rising to the anchor tree.
Clarification/correction by anyone who knows on the "real" name is welcome.
Have fun, be safe, enjoy.