Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 45 ft
FA: Paul Sibley and Steve Pomerance
Page Views: 1,757 total · 10/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

To the left of Spiral Staircase are a series of at least 8-10 ice & mixed lines. This line is the first set of these just left of Spiral Staircase by perhaps 50-60 feet and right of Slabutt by perhaps 90-100 feet. Here lies at least 3 starts and 2 finishes of intriguing combination of lines. There, however, can be little if any protection available for the finishes. Addendum: some rap slings have been added that hang over the lip and from branches to the right.

Now for the name: The 2 guidebooks as of 2004 give contradictory information. In J. Roberts' Colorado Ice, there does not seem to be information regarding this line. In C. Burns' Colorado Ice Climber's Guide,, there is a suggestion that this is called "Unnamed Verglass" or "Spiral Stairs Smears" based upon the photo, but it describes that as brushy, which this is not. J. Roberts' guidebook suggests "Unnamed Verglas" lies further East. Nonetheless, this route, whatever it is called (addendum: now named Log Jammin' per Jack, thanks!), can be an entertaining TR and a serious lead.

The starts lie 1) in an angling traverse from the left, 2) a thinnish ribbon of ice to a dead tree, or 3) a crack to thin smears on the right. From the midpoint, you can a) go up in a flaring crack on the left or b) move right into a corner with gradually thickening ice. The finish to the anchor lies above yet another dead tree with frozen dirt sticks rising to the anchor tree.

Clarification/correction by anyone who knows on the "real" name is welcome.

Have fun, be safe, enjoy.

Protection

Stubbies, cams, courage or perhaps better to TR.

Toprope Protection

There is a tree at the very edge of the cliff with a bunch of slings around it (addendum: apparently, no more). Note, however, nearly half of the root system seems exposed. Beware. Consider long slings to backup anchor to larger trees. There have been accidents at Vail with trees at the edge of the cliff.

Photos

This is a fun climb while near the Spiral Staircase. The ice was more prevalent than shown in the above picture, for an ascent up the right side. To lead, it takes only stubbies and maybe a cam or two (read:"low angle" thin ice). As for the left side, it's a great flaring crack with perfect tool placements. Anyone know what the pure left route would be rated, M6-? Seemed pumpy but very secure.

As stated above, be aware of the anchor tree. Looks quite precarious. Feb 20, 2007
Tom Willard
Avon, CO
 
Tom Willard   Avon, CO
 
Short but exciting. Enough ice to take 3 stubbies. Must like climbing frozen mud! Feb 19, 2009
"Log-Jammin'", is the original name given to it by Paul Sibley and Steve Pomerance who did the FA.

Any other name is just make-believe.... Mar 19, 2010
Princess Mia
Vail
 
Princess Mia   Vail
 
Super fun route either way you start. No anchor tree at the top any more so one must do the overhanging dirt finish to a huge tree above. Very cool and fun. Currently (December 2011) three or so very short screws can be placed for pro. Dec 11, 2011