Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 45 ft (14 m)
FA: Paul Sibley and Steve Pomerance
Page Views: 2,711 total · 11/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

To the left of Spiral Staircase are a series of at least 8-10 ice & mixed lines. This line is the first set of these just left of Spiral Staircase by perhaps 50-60 feet and right of Slabutt by perhaps 90-100 feet. Here lies at least 3 starts and 2 finishes of intriguing combination of lines. There, however, can be little if any protection available for the finishes. Addendum: some rap slings have been added that hang over the lip and from branches to the right.

Now for the name: the 2 guidebooks as of 2004 give contradictory information. In J. Roberts' Colorado Ice, there does not seem to be information regarding this line. In C. Burns' Colorado Ice Climber's Guide,, there is a suggestion that this is called "Unnamed Verglass" or "Spiral Stairs Smears" based upon the photo, but it describes that as brushy, which this is not. J. Roberts' guidebook suggests "Unnamed Verglas" lies further East. Nonetheless, this route, whatever it is called (addendum: now named Log Jammin' per Jack, thanks!), can be an entertaining TR and a serious lead.

The starts lie 1) in an angling traverse from the left, 2) a thinnish ribbon of ice to a dead tree (perhaps gone now?), or 3) a crack to thin smears on the right. From the midpoint, you can a) go up in a flaring crack on the left or b) move right into a corner with gradually thickening ice. The finish to the anchor lies above yet another dead tree with frozen dirt sticks rising to the anchor tree.

Clarification/correction by anyone who knows on the "real" name is welcome.

Per Rob Griz: as of Jan. 2022, the tree that made up the route name and ideally the mid-route protection, has rotted and fallen away from the cliff. The route can still be climbed via the many options listed above (sans tree). Because of this change, there have been 3 stainless steel bolts added to the route in good fashion to reasonably protect this old classic  A clifftop tree anchor (backed up to another larger tree behind) with quicklinks finishes the line. Climbing the left ice, through some rock into the thin right ice and up into the rock/turf/roots above, makes a great line.

Have fun, be safe, enjoy.

Protection Suggest change

Stubbies, cams, courage or perhaps better to TR.

Toprope Protection Suggest change

There is a tree at the very edge of the cliff with a bunch of slings around it (addendum: apparently, no more). Note, however, nearly half of the root system seems exposed. Beware. Consider long slings to backup anchor to larger trees. There have been accidents at Vail with trees at the edge of the cliff.

Per Rob Griz: as of Jan. 21, 2022, I put 3 bolts in it to make it a reasonable and enjoyable yet spicy outing for most. It has formed in all kinds of ways, but in my observation in the last 5 years, it’s thinning out a bit each year.

Photos

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