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Routes in Spiral Staircase area

8mm T M7
Big GB S M5
Boxed In (aka Stemcicle) T,S WI5- M6+
Dragon's Tongue T,S WI5+ M7 PG13
IMAPNISS WI4+ M5
Lil' GB S M4+
Little Feat S M6+
Log-Jammin' T WI3-4 M4-5 R
Menora T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI4 M4-5
Pink Funhouse S M7
Public Masturbation S M8
Rust Never Sleeps S WI5- M5+ PG13
Secret Probation T WI5 M6
Slabutt T WI3+
Spiral Staircase T WI4-
Titties 'n' Beer S WI5- M7
Tourette's T WI4- M6
Unnamed S M7
Type: Sport, Mixed, 45 ft
FA: Rob Griz, Brad Grohusky
Page Views: 910 total, 11/month
Shared By: Rob Griz on Jan 15, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Yet another great addition to the Vail area. Short and sweet, yet it'll keep you reachin' a little higher. The first bolt is intentionally set high (to stick clip), yet if you know the holds, it can be (has been) led ground-up (just don't blow it). The crux is between the first 2 bolts, and the climbing has excellent moves in a natural seam that runs to the top of the cliff. You gotta try it, great Stein pulls, cams, and shallow pods.

Protection

The 4 spacious bolts are exactly where you need them. There are anchors on top for an easy escape. Enjoy! A 5th bolt was added on 11/11 between the upper two bolts, due to ledge-fall potential. The upper crack seam is well dug out, careful camming and thin footwork will help you reach the anchor.

Location

Looking at the Staircase, look left. The route runs up the beautiful, steep face, beginning in right-facing corner/open book that is visible 10m left of the ice. For kicks and clarity, working left of the Staircase you have Stemcicle (aka Boxed in), a Grade 3 ice flow with a static rope top anchor, the Log Jammin' (mixed trad), then the Pink Funhouse. Stick-clip the first bolt (borrow my clipstick in the red litter sled, bring a squid/tape). Lower off the pair of bomber top anchors.

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