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Routes in Spiral Staircase area

8mm T M7
Big GB S M5
Boxed In (aka Stemcicle) T,S WI5- M6+
Dragon's Tongue T,S WI5+ M7 PG13
IMAPNISS WI4+ M5
Lil' GB S M4+
Little Feat S M6+
Log-Jammin' T WI3-4 M4-5 R
Menora T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI4 M4-5
Pink Funhouse S M7
Public Masturbation S M8
Rust Never Sleeps S WI5- M5+ PG13
Secret Probation T WI5 M6
Slabutt T WI3+
Spiral Staircase T WI4-
Titties 'n' Beer S WI5- M7
Tourette's T WI4- M6
Unnamed S M7
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Type: Sport, Mixed, 45 ft
FA: Rob Griz, Brad Grohusky
Page Views: 967 total · 11/month
Shared By: Rob Griz on Jan 15, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description [Edit]

Yet another great addition to the Vail area. Short and sweet, yet it'll keep you reachin' a little higher. The first bolt is intentionally set high (to stick clip), yet if you know the holds, it can be (has been) led ground-up (just don't blow it). The crux is between the first 2 bolts, and the climbing has excellent moves in a natural seam that runs to the top of the cliff. You gotta try it, great Stein pulls, cams, and shallow pods.

Protection [Edit]

The 4 spacious bolts are exactly where you need them. There are anchors on top for an easy escape. Enjoy! A 5th bolt was added on 11/11 between the upper two bolts, due to ledge-fall potential. The upper crack seam is well dug out, careful camming and thin footwork will help you reach the anchor.

Location [Edit]

Looking at the Staircase, look left. The route runs up the beautiful, steep face, beginning in right-facing corner/open book that is visible 10m left of the ice. For kicks and clarity, working left of the Staircase you have Stemcicle (aka Boxed in), a Grade 3 ice flow with a static rope top anchor, the Log Jammin' (mixed trad), then the Pink Funhouse. Stick-clip the first bolt (borrow my clipstick in the red litter sled, bring a squid/tape). Lower off the pair of bomber top anchors.

Photos

Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
Fun for sure, traddy. Feb 26, 2018

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