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Routes in Spiral Staircase area

8mm T M7
Big GB S M5
Boxed In (aka Stemcicle) T,S WI5- M6+
Dragon's Tongue T,S WI5+ M7 PG13
IMAPNISS WI4+ M5
Lil' GB S M4+
Little Feat S M6+
Log-Jammin' T WI3-4 M4-5 R
Menora T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI4 M4-5
Pink Funhouse S M7
Public Masturbation S M8
Rust Never Sleeps S WI5- M5+ PG13
Secret Probation T WI5 M6
Slabutt T WI3+
Spiral Staircase T WI4-
Titties 'n' Beer S WI5- M7
Tourette's T WI4- M6
Unnamed S M7
Type: Trad, Sport, Mixed, Ice, 65 ft
FA: Charlie Fowler & Stephan, 1996
Page Views: 1,158 total, 12/month
Shared By: Rob Griz on Jan 25, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The Stemcicle follows the left-facing corner, just left of the Spiral Staircase ice. Stick clip the first of 2 bolts or bring along a 0.5-.75 cam and stem off ice to reach high to place it under the lower roof. Work up on ultra-thin crack placements to the upper roof and stem. If the free-hanger is fat enough, reach out and stab it from behind. Use all the ab strength and commit to the ice. Follow the candled ice up past a mini ledge (rest) and up into the saplings above. This route has an old, broken knifeblade indicating an earlier ascent? If the dagger does not drop down, one can turn the roof to the right via a strenuous reach to the ice on the edge of the Staircase.

Location

This is just left of the infamous Spiral Staircase.

Protection

2 bolts, a few shorter screws, and a 0.5-.75 cam.
Chacal
 
Chacal  
 
Super fun route! I loved the lower moves following the seam into the corner. Once there, the feet are there but thin, just find them. The crack has good tools. Finding your exit onto the ice is cool, good when the ice is low and you can stem. A couple powerful moves get you on the ice. Mar 3, 2012
Rob Griz
Frisco
 
Rob Griz   Frisco
 
Boxed In or Thinking Outside of the Box...however you look at it, it has become a route worth jumping on. Thanks to Jack for digging into the archives and finding the FA info on this excellent line. If you get a chance to climb it, you will enjoy passing a single piece of the original route history, Charlie's broken KB, up on the thin corner. Just did this route the other night, sooooo good! Thanks again, Jack! Mar 20, 2010
This route was first climbed in 1996 by Charlie Fowler and his partner, named Stephan. Instead of the two bolts that have just recently been placed three pitons were fixed (later two) and left in place.

The original name given by Charlie, which I feel should still be honored, is "BOXED IN". Mar 19, 2010