Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 65 ft (20 m)
FA: Charlie Fowler & Stephan, 1996
Page Views: 1,832 total · 11/month
Shared By: Rob Griz on Jan 25, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

The Stemcicle follows the left-facing corner, just left of the Spiral Staircase ice. Stick clip the first of 2 bolts or bring along a 0.5-.75 cam and stem off ice to reach high to place it under the lower roof. Work up on ultra-thin crack placements to the upper roof and stem. If the free-hanger is fat enough, reach out and stab it from behind. Use all the ab strength and commit to the ice. Follow the candled ice up past a mini ledge (rest) and up into the saplings above. This route has an old, broken knifeblade indicating an earlier ascent? If the dagger does not drop down, one can turn the roof to the right via a strenuous reach to the ice on the edge of the Staircase.

Location

This is just left of the infamous Spiral Staircase.

Protection

2 bolts, a few shorter screws, and a 0.5-.75 cam.

Photos