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Routes in Narrows, Redstone, McClure Pass

Avocado Gully T WI3-4 M2
Bulldog Creek Dog Walk WI4+
Cold Heaven T WI4+
Crystal Visions T WI4-5
Dancing in the Moonlight WI4- M2
Dirty Linen Gully T WI2+ M2
Drool, The WI4-5
Hays Creek Falls T WI2
Marble Falls T WI4
Redstone Pillar T WI4
Redstone Slabs WI5
Stoney Fest T WI5+ M5 R
Type: Trad, Ice
FA: Larry Bruce & Lou Dawson, 1970s?
Page Views: 3,796 total · 22/month
Shared By: Reese Martin on Nov 30, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is another Colorado Classic. It is a great single pitch of pure ice, and it is often chandeliered in the early season.

Protection

4 to 6 long ice screws will usually do it. A single 60 meter rope will get you down.

Toprope Protection

There are some slings around brush on the climber's left on top. Bring something long (15') to extend the anchors & reduce rope drag. To get to the top, hike up on the climber's left, then traverse back to the creek bed.

Approach

Per claytown: park on the downhill side of the Redstone Inn. Walk down that road, past the gate that says "private road / no trespassing". Walk the road for 5 or 10 minutes then turn left when you see the old T-bar ski lift. Walk uphill under that eventually following a creek drainage east to the climb.

Per BJ Sbarra: the Redstone Pillar itself is actually owned by Pitkin County Open Space, and this is the legal access to it.

Photos

BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
 
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
 
This approach is indeed "allowed." Just be sure to walk on the side of the road, and be courteous to anyone you see along the way. The Redstone Pillar itself is actually owned by Pitkin County Open Space, and this is the legal access to it. Feb 25, 2014
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Fat and awesome right now.

FWIW, we had three guidebooks, and none of them gave great instructions for parking and the approach. Park on the downhill side of the Redstone Inn. Walk down that road, past the gate that says "private road / no trespassing". Walk the road for 5 or 10 minutes then turn left when you see the old T-bar ski lift. Walk uphill under that eventually following a creek drainage east to the climb.

It's vague if this is "allowed" or not, but the only place marked no trespassing is the sign before the road (which the road is shared by a few houses and the "castle"). If an admin wants to remove this post, go for it. Feb 24, 2014
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
Bring extra mittens! Kinda wet one. Feb 8, 2014
Lou Dawson and I did this route back in the early '70s, I followed it and I think it was the first ascent. Lou is often thought of his wonderful ski first ascent, but his soloing Glenwood icefall left side plus other numerous other solo ice climbs he did back in the '70s would make any mortal weep in fear. Mar 6, 2013